Texas Duo 5.10
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Rope marks the line. It's pretty darn clean for LD...
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Description Nice route. Good quality rock; this climb has seen enough traffic to clean the route. One crux about four bolts up; it will be obvious-look up and left for larger crimps at the crux. This climb stays on you, but rests can be found.
Location On the left side of the road that terminates at the saddle. This climb is located on the front face of the first real formation uphill from the road.
Protection Nine bolts. Two hangers at the top (with slings) and rings.
By brucy Mar 2, 2011 rating: 5.10c PG13
| No, this route is not clean. What holds remained that we didn't break on the route "look" like they will eventually. And, no, there were seven (7) bolts not nine (9). There was a bolt at the top with a ratty sling, and, another bolt that someone left a short quickdraw. Both ensured massive rope draggage. We replaced those with a long piece of 11 mm rope and a single quick link. Subsequent parties may (and should) wish to supplement this with additional chains or at least another sling/link combo. |
By arjunmh From: Phoenix, AZ Dec 11, 2011 rating: 5.10b/c
| Fun to start this from the ground and chimney up to get to the ledge to "start" to the first bolt. Would say that this is certainly a clean route for LD standards and is thoughtful through the cruxes. A good fun route that was a surprise as I had no idea what the route was when we did it. Saw bolts and climbed! |
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