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The Egg
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Boneyard S 
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Texas Chainsaw Massacre 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,066
Submitted By: Benjamin Chapman on May 28, 2011

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Climbers on "Texas Chainsaw Massacre" (right) and ...

Description 

Texas Chainsaw Massacre begins with a series of good-sized, but shallow pockets. Pockets lead to a stance below two large inclusions and the 1st bolt. Continue up the featured face on edges, cobbles, and an occasional pocket. As the angle of the slab decreases so do the number of pockets, and the footholds and handholds become smaller and less secure. Insecure friction and palming lead to the anchor.

Location 

This is the 2nd route from the left side of The Egg Cup buttress. Begin at a series of large shallow pockets.

Protection 

7 bolts & 2-ring Fixe anchor.


Photos of Texas Chainsaw Massacre Slideshow Add Photo
A climber nearing the top of "Texas Chainsaw Massacre," on a glorious winter day in S. California.
A climber nearing the top of "Texas Chainsaw Massa...
Steep moves on "Texas Chainsaw Massacre."
Steep moves on "Texas Chainsaw Massacre."
Chris O climbing, photo by Stefan Harms.
Chris O climbing, photo by Stefan Harms.
Getting acquainted with the features on "Texas Chainsaw Massacre."
Getting acquainted with the features on "Texas Cha...

Comments on Texas Chainsaw Massacre Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Nov 28, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Seemingly well featured - but puzzling steep initial section leads to less steepness but distinct paucity higher up - gotta edge those tiny cobbles and hope they don't blow!
By Bobby Lanie
Jan 17, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great route, but a little chossy. The bolts for the climb next to it are annoyingly close though. Definitely not a 5.10b, more like a 5.8... also, only 40-50 feet to the fixe anchors.
By Jeff constine
May 9, 2012

LOL,
Is a Joke
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Sep 12, 2012

Watching Jeff take a 10 ft. whipper onto the 5th bolt was no joke. It was Karen's 1st catch of a lead fall and she did great! No joke.
By NancyM
From: Acton, California
Dec 29, 2013

Yes, it's very thin higher up; I won't try leading it until I get better shoes (a la Pam's recommendation)! :)
By BAd
Feb 23, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Bobby, do you climb 5.12, or are we talking about the same climb? I think 10b is about right. If Agua Negro is 5.4 in your book, then maybe 5.8 fits. For the rest of us mortals, expect some 10 moves, especially up high. Fun! Reasonably clean and sold now.

BAd
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Feb 23, 2014

BAd.....Bobbie may be using the Gunks rating scale...where a 5.10a is rated 5.6 (Shockley's Ceiling), a 5.10c is rated 5.9 (Maria -Direct), or a 5.7 (Gelsa), rated 5.4. If that is Bobby's datum then, Texas Chainsaw Massacre (5.10b) may feel like a 5.8+ to him.
But, I'm on the same page with you regarding the 5.10b rating.