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The Egg
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Green Mile, The 
Texas Chainsaw Massacre 

Texas Chainsaw Massacre 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 1,001
Submitted By: Benjamin Chapman on May 28, 2011
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Getting acquainted with the features on "Texas Cha...


Texas Chainsaw Massacre begins with a series of good-sized, but shallow pockets. Pockets lead to a stance below two large inclusions and the 1st bolt. Continue up the featured face on edges, cobbles, and an occasional pocket. As the angle of the slab decreases so do the number of pockets, and the footholds and handholds become smaller and less secure. Insecure friction and palming lead to the anchor.


This is the 2nd route from the left side of The Egg Cup buttress. Begin at a series of large shallow pockets.


7 bolts & 2-ring Fixe anchor.

Photos of Texas Chainsaw Massacre Slideshow Add Photo
Chris O climbing, photo by Stefan Harms.
Chris O climbing, photo by Stefan Harms.
Steep moves on "Texas Chainsaw Massacre."
Steep moves on "Texas Chainsaw Massacre."
A climber nearing the top of "Texas Chainsaw Massacre," on a glorious winter day in S. California.
A climber nearing the top of "Texas Chainsaw Massa...
Climbers on "Texas Chainsaw Massacre" (right) and "Night Shift" (left).
Climbers on "Texas Chainsaw Massacre" (right) and ...
Comments on Texas Chainsaw Massacre Add Comment
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By Chris Owen
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Nov 28, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Seemingly well featured - but puzzling steep initial section leads to less steepness but distinct paucity higher up - gotta edge those tiny cobbles and hope they don't blow!

By Bobby Lanie
Jan 17, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Great route, but a little chossy. The bolts for the climb next to it are annoyingly close though. Definitely not a 5.10b, more like a 5.8... also, only 40-50 feet to the fixe anchors.

By Jeff constine
May 9, 2012

Is a Joke

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Sep 12, 2012

Watching Jeff take a 10 ft. whipper onto the 5th bolt was no joke. It was Karen's 1st catch of a lead fall and she did great! No joke.

By NancyM
From: Acton, California
Dec 29, 2013

Yes, it's very thin higher up; I won't try leading it until I get better shoes (a la Pam's recommendation)! :)

By BAd
Feb 23, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Bobby, do you climb 5.12, or are we talking about the same climb? I think 10b is about right. If Agua Negro is 5.4 in your book, then maybe 5.8 fits. For the rest of us mortals, expect some 10 moves, especially up high. Fun! Reasonably clean and sold now.


By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Feb 23, 2014

BAd.....Bobbie may be using the Gunks rating scale...where a 5.10a is rated 5.6 (Shockley's Ceiling), a 5.10c is rated 5.9 (Maria -Direct), or a 5.7 (Gelsa), rated 5.4. If he climbs at the Gunks, often, Texas Chainsaw Massacre (5.10b) may feel like a 5.8+ to him.
But, I'm on the same page with you regarding the 5.10b rating.