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Tetons Owen spalding conditions? In mid April.
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By Greg-Az
From Prescott Az
Apr 14, 2014

I am thinking about the OS this next weekend. If any one has been up there lately, I would love to hear about the conditions. I figure it will be winter conditions. What kind of rack would you bring? As for the raps can I do it with just a sixty? Thanks, should be fun.

-Greg


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By jon jugenheimer
From Madison
Apr 15, 2014
hi

One 70 will make it in two raps I was told, but I have always done the regular raps with two 60s. The other rap is located skiers left of the regular station.

Also, haven't been up there, but I can only guess that it is still full winter on the OS.


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By JonW
Apr 15, 2014

Last time up there, I climbed with double 60's but only needed on for the raps. Made me wish I hadn't brought the doubles. I forget which station I used, but recall it being the more obvious one of the two.


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By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From Lander, WY
Apr 15, 2014
The Shield

You might have trouble finding the lower anchor (the one a 60 can work with) in winter conditions. Best to take two. As per those conditions, April is full on winter. Snow pack is around 150% up there right now.


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By Thomas Carson
From Frederick, MD
Apr 15, 2014
on the Grand, 2012

I've done the rappels with one 60m. If you know where to throw it, you only need one. Ask the rangers for more detail about that.

And yeah, it'll be full winter for quite some time.


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By Allen Sanderson
From Oootah
Apr 15, 2014

A 70m rope doubled will get you down to the upper saddle. As said a 60m will work if you know where to land and if with a partner it is even easier as one can do a single line rap.

As for conditions, the usual April conditions for the OS snowy and icy. IMHO it is more fun to do the Exum as it will be in the sun. Years ago in early April we did the complete Exum from the valley floor. Took about 4 -5 hours for the route. Not much snow on lower part bit of ice in the chimney. The upper can be climbed in boots. I wore teleboots for the whole thing - though my part lead the the black face in rock shoes.

Regarding a rack - if you have to ask you probably should not be up there this time of year.


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By Greg-Az
From Prescott Az
Apr 15, 2014

Ha! I was waiting for that "if you have to ask you shouldn't be there." No I'm confident with gear, just suggestions is all I was looking for kinda like what a guide book gives you but things are much different in these conditions than say summer.. No worries I will be happy to figure it out.

The upper exum maybe be a good choice too. So thanks for the advice there. I will probaly bring two half ropes seeing as I don't where to throw them. Ok keep it coming thanks for the info.


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By Eric Fernandez
From Dixon, CA
Apr 15, 2014

Trip report from mid June on a high snow year. Plan on winter conditions, snow still at trail head, bring snow shoes, two ropes (tag line whatever you use), maybe even two ice axes, bringing a screw or two would not be a bad idea + alpine rack.

Exum would be much warmer, but you are still descending OS, so if you don't know the way down keep that in mind.


drdirtbag.wordpress.com/2011/06/22/grand-teton-owen-spalding>>>


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By Jaren Watson
From Rexburg, Idaho
Apr 15, 2014

With a single 70-meter, the rap barely goes if you throw your rope down to rappeller's right. If there are additional belay anchors that allow for a single 60-meter rope rappel, I've not seen it. I've heard it can be done, but I've never seen anyone do it. Having said that, I've only climbed the mountain twice, so it's certainly possible I've been misinformed.
Current conditions: deep, soft snow starting very low. It snowed quite a bit less than two weeks ago and it has not been warm since then. It's supposed to snow this afternoon and evening. In other words, you are correct, sir--total winter conditions, so a full winter rack is necessary.
Have fun and be safe!


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By Buff Johnson
Apr 15, 2014
smiley face

like pickets, some screws and a shovel.
get some


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By Thomas Carson
From Frederick, MD
Apr 15, 2014
on the Grand, 2012

Jaren Watson wrote:
If there are additional belay anchors that allow for a single 60-meter rope rappel, I've not seen it. I've heard it can be done, but I've never seen anyone do it. Having said that, I've only climbed the mountain twice, so it's certainly possible I've been misinformed.


I've done it with one 60m. On the second rappel, go to the all the way out on the edge to skier's left to the anchors there. They're almost around the corner, but not hard to miss if you're looking for them. Throw the rope skier's left. You'll get to the bottom.


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By Matt Shove
From Ragged Mountain
Apr 15, 2014

You can rap with a single 60 if you go off the slung horn climbers right of the bolts. If you go off the bolts, I don't think you will make it. Be careful on the approach thru Garnet Canyon-- mega snow there right now.


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By Jaren Watson
From Rexburg, Idaho
Apr 15, 2014

Thomas and Matt: good to know about the rap. Thanks!


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By Eric Fernandez
From Dixon, CA
Apr 16, 2014

It will be hard find, and a little difficult/sketchy to get to the set of anchors that allows for a single 60 m rappel with what the conditions will be like.

If you can't find/get to the anchor and you only bring one rope you are faced with some serious down climbing, at very least bring a 70m and set it up to rap 40m with some slings tied off on the end, or even better just carry a tag line its light.


Also heads up the climbing ranger station at Jenny Lake will not be open to ask questions this time of year.

The 60m rap is great in prime conditions, if you know where it is, or if others are on the route rapping from there to show location.

Not sure what Thomas is speaking of two raps, it only takes on rap, either a perfect 31m from the right station (slung horn) or about 45 m from the bolts, there are no intermediate stations, just a choice between bolts and slung horn at the top.


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By Allen Sanderson
From Oootah
Apr 16, 2014

Winston O'Boogie wrote:
It will be hard find, and a little difficult/sketchy to get to the set of anchors that allows for a single 60 m rappel with what the conditions will be like. If you can't find/get to the anchor and you only bring one rope you are faced with some serious down climbing, at very least bring a 70m and set it up to rap 40m with some slings tied off on the end, or even better just carry a tag line its light. Also heads up the climbing ranger station at Jenny Lake will not be open to ask questions this time of year. The 60m rap is great in prime conditions, if you know where it is, or if others are on the route rapping from there to show location. Not sure what Thomas is speaking of two raps, it only takes on rap, either a perfect 31m from the right station (slung horn) or about 45 m from the bolts, there are no intermediate stations, just a choice between bolts and slung horn at the top.


The above is not completely correct. A 70m will work from the bolted station. A 60m will also work - with a bit of work (i.e one raps into the chimney and down climbs). There are other ways to make a 60m work.

As for the two raps. For many many years there has been a secondary rap station that is perhaps 75-100 feet to the south of the bolted station. Rather than drop down the last bit to the bolted station one traverses farther left about 75-100 feet or so. The station there as I have used it a few times when the other station is otherwise a cluster fuck. The first rap is about 70 feet or so to a ledge. The second rap is another 70 feet to the Upper Saddle. Look on page 150, Figure 27 of Renny's book.

Here are pictures of the face and raps (scroll down there are two images):

www.wyomingwhiskey.org/2013/01/grand-teton-climbing-route-ph>>>


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By Buff Johnson
Apr 16, 2014
smiley face

just take some skis up there and huck the face


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By Eric Fernandez
From Dixon, CA
Apr 16, 2014

Allen Sanderson wrote:
As for the two raps. For many many years there has been a secondary rap station that is perhaps 75-100 feet to the south of the bolted station. Rather than drop down the last bit to the bolted station one traverses farther left about 75-100 feet or so. The station there as I have used it a few times when the other station is otherwise a cluster fuck. The first rap is about 70 feet or so to a ledge. The second rap is another 70 feet to the Upper Saddle. Look on page 150, Figure 27 of Renny's book. Here are pictures of the face and raps (scroll down there are two images): www.wyomingwhiskey.org/2013/01/grand-teton-climbing-route-ph>>>


Interesting, I have used that station before never knew there was a second rap. As the whiskey guys say throw the rope south and a 60m reaches with a bit of rope stretch from there, just thought think this station would be hard to get to or see in full winter conditions.

Those Wyoming Whiskey guys do a great job with all the info the post in the range, some of the best info I've seen on any range.


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By Thomas Carson
From Frederick, MD
Apr 16, 2014
on the Grand, 2012

Winston O'Boogie wrote:
Not sure what Thomas is speaking of two raps


I was just referring to Sargent's Chimney being the first rappel.


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By Greg-Az
From Prescott Az
Apr 21, 2014

Thanks for all the advice. We brought two half ropes just in case which was heavy. We skied the nez perce hourglass coulior the day before. Slept in a pretty avy safe and low wind camp site in the moraines. After sleepless night we booted up the upper saddle. We walked canted into the wind. I made the mistake of climbing the Wall Street coulior which was rather steep. It had a sun crust holding in sugary snow. We turned around when it dead ended. too tired to keep going we skied back down to brad tag trailhead. Wear your sunglasses out there or else you will wake up with snow blindness. I learned a lot. Sadly, no grand teton ascent. Thanks for the condition reports.


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By Jaren Watson
From Rexburg, Idaho
Apr 21, 2014

Glad you were able to get out and return safely.


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