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Decadent Wall
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Testosterone Test 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave Bingham 1987
Page Views: 725
Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Aug 27, 2007
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Description 

This is a great route with a couple powerful sequences. Start in a hard lieback past a bolt and then a dicey mantle. Climb up into an undercling crack with gear and then a powerful section past a fixed Lost Arrow. Then another tricky section past a bolt on a bulge then climb over more bulges with okay gear to the top. A great line with some great climbing!


Location 

On the far right side of the Decadent wall, it takes a central line over the roofs and bulges.


Protection 

Quickdraws, long slings and a set of cams to a #2 camalot. Maybe some nuts.



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By bheller
From: SL UT
Jun 23, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a PG13

One of the first hard routes to usher in the wave of difficult climbing that would define the City of Rocks throughout the late 1980's and into the early 1990's.

The starting mantle was orignally refered to as the 10,000 calorie mantle, and the testosterone test refers to the committing crux moves negotiating the bulge protected by the Lost Arrow pin in a horizontal seam. I also recall placing a clever horizonal #4 friend that seemed like a key feel-good piece higher above the pin. Stick clip the first bolt or else!

By Brian Waters
From: Ogden, UT
Mar 26, 2012

I second the stick clip.

The first crux felt like V4-V5, and the rest of the route is significantly easier.