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Gunsmoke Wall
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Testosterone Crack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chuck Scott, 1995
Page Views: 722
Submitted By: C Miller on Jun 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: The west face of the Gunsmoke Wall.

Description 

This route climbs the obvious right-facing corner left of Bacon Taco via stemming, liebacking and even some face moves and goes at a much easier grade than inital appearances might suggest.

The route was orginally done without any bolts and by climbing the crack without stemming (5.11 but contrived). Years later the line was bolted by climbers thinking they were doing the FA and with the discovery that a little stemming lowers the grade has become a semi-popular route in the area.


Location 

Right side of the West Face and a short ways left of Bacon Taco.


Protection 

4 bolts, chains



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By MAR
Aug 27, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I found this harder than 5.10a even with stemming. Clipping the 3rd bolt from the stem was difficult, and moving out onto the face before the clip, tenuous (admittedly I'm 5.4 and my follower had less trouble with the reachy clip). The moves between bolt 3 and 4 were the crux for me. Its good to note that the climb goes right after the 4th bolt, as I went straight up and had to down climb some when I realized the anchors were way to the right. All said, however, a cool route.

By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
May 28, 2013

I thought climbing the crack without stemming was excellent full value sustained .11 movement with a couple .11+ moves between the second and third bolt. Great hand jam for clipping the third bolt. This is one of those climbs that you keep thinking about right before going to sleep. Some really excellent finger locks, side pulls, gastone, and crimping, all extremely sustained and all flow well once you can decipher the moves.

By NJS
Jul 3, 2014

The bolts were placed so you could climb the face without use of the crack. Hence the bolt line and anchors are not near the crack. The route is called Joes Dilemma and the consensus grade according to the person that bolted the line is 13a/12d.