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This tall buttress has some of the best steep/face/crack routes that the Bald has to offer. The sunny side is great when temps are cool and crisp. On warmer days you can head around to the shady side for a good pump workout.
Approach from either the boulder field trail or the Cereal Buttress trail.
13 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Test Pilots Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Test Pilots Buttress:
5.8 Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Rocket Science 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Weight and Balance Check 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Flakes of Bake 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad, 70'
Kosmonauts 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Flakes of Wrath (aka Arch Rival) 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Space Monkey 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Kennedy Space Port 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Focus 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R Trad, Sport, 95'
Test Pilots 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Backdoor Man 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Featured Route For Test Pilots Buttress
Flakes of Wrath (aka Arch Rival) 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a NC : Rumbling Bald : Test Pilots Buttress
Climb a line of four or five bolts past steep, incut flakes to a stance above a fixed pin. Climb up the left facing arch past good but hard to place gear and pull the lip (crux) of the arch to a stance below a steep, featured headwall. Get tricky gear (nuts) and blast up and right for the top of the cliff. Belay or lower from a cable thread thru. Edge is sharp in spots....[more] Browse More Classics in NC
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