Test Piece 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | Aron Quiter on May 26, 2003 |
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BETA PHOTO: Test Piece from the base.
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Description Climb up the less than vertical crack in the right corner of the main area.
Sustained, this route gives excellent liebacks and jams the whole way up the crack. Trusting your feet on the excellent granite of Buck's Bar Dome is a must, but you can make it to the top!
This route shares a top anchor with Adhesion (5.10c withvariations more difficult) just to the right on the face and rounded arete.
Protection Pro up to 2 1/2" will suffice.
To set up a toprope:You can access the top anchors by walking aroundto the top of Buck's Bar Dome via the exit path tothe left.
Test Piece
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Leading Test Piece
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By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Nov 13, 2007
| You may want to double up on 1-1 1/2" cams. |
By Christopher Michaelson
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Oct 4, 2009
rating: 5.8+
| I agree with doubling up on the smaller cams if you choose to lead this route.
I set up a TR anchor using the two bolts at the top of the route. There is a little bit of rust on one of the bolts, so I also backed up the anchor using two more bolts that were close by.
This is a fun climb, and the crux is just a bit over half way up. Stick to the right-most crack, and lie-back your way to the top (you'll definitely have to jam to surmount the crux). |
By Peter Doak
Sep 17, 2012
rating: 5.8+
| Both bolt hangers are moving now. Bolts still seem solid but show rust. Built anchor including neighboring bolts which are better. Route is very climber polished and was greasy around the crux. Still a good lead but protect the crux unless you crush this sort of route. |
By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Dec 10, 2012
rating: 5.8
| If you jam, then the crux is the first 6 ft, and the pod halfway up is the nicest rest on the entire route. Use broth cracks to start, including your left foot/toe in the corner crack while stemming with the right foot. It is very easy this way. |
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