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Terryall State Park? Valley of Chickens?

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5.7 Crack T 
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Unknown (Huecos and Chickenheads?) T 

Terryall State Park? Valley of Chickens? 


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Location: 39.1002, -105.52374 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,342
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Mike C. Robinson on Mar 1, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Top to 5.5 near the right side of the wall. Protec...

Description 

This area is great in Fall and on warm Winter days. It is never crowded. There are 1-2 pitch trad and sport routes. The crags can be hard to get to as most roads are not labeled.

Per WMcD: There are about 15 moderate routes, some up to three pitches in length. Ascend the chickenheads, cracks, and faces. Although a few face routes are bolted, most protection is found in cracks and by slinging the large chickenheads. The routes are equipped with modern rap anchors. The rock quality is good, the features are unique, and the hardest established routes clock in around 5.10. The good climbing cannot be seen in the pictures currently posted for this area. Most of the established routes are located off the right side of these photos.


Getting There 

Go North on CO 92 past Eleven Mile Canyon on the left. It will be on the right before you intersect with US 24 E/W. You may find a better description in South Platte climbing guides, crags can be elusive to find because the roads are not labeled.

Per WMcD: It is located off of Park County Road 31 in between Highway 24 and the Tarryall Road (CR 77). I can't remember the numbers of the roads that actually lead to the crag, but the rock is clearly visible below and to the right of Badger Mountain (the one with the antennas) when driving on CR31 from the Tarryall Schoolhouse toward 24. Veer right off of 31 at some mailboxes and pass a small ranch and pond on your left. Stay right near the signs for La Salle Pass and park at a large campsite directly beneath the crag. A 5 minute walk up an obvious trail leads to the rock.


Climbing Season


3 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Terryall State Park? Valley of Chickens?
Toprope anchor can be built by traversing over from 5.6 route to the right (one with the chickenheads). Otherwise, bring a standard rack.

5.7 Crack 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  CO : South Platte : Terryall State Park? Valley...
This is a long crack in middle of Valley of the Chickens main wall. The crux is near the beginning before crack opens up, and route gets easier once the crack develops....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Terryall State Park? Valley of Chickens?
Photos of Terryall State Park? Valley of Chickens? Slideshow Add Photo
Sport/ Trad Crag in Terryall.
Sport/ Trad Crag in Terryall.
Terryall Crag.
Terryall Crag.
Base of right side 5.5. Plenty of trees for hammocking at bottom.
BETA PHOTO: Base of right side 5.5. Plenty of trees for hammoc...
Comments on Terryall State Park? Valley of Chickens? Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeremy Hakes
From: Golden, Colorado
Jun 16, 2008

I think you are referring to Tarryall State Park....

By Christopher Jones
From: Denver, Colorado
Jun 17, 2008

I agree Pete, I was wondering what the hell they were trying to describe here. Terryall is about 30 miles north on County Rd. 77. I'm not too sure how the climbing is at Terryall but the fishing is supposed to be pretty good.

By John McNamee
Administrator
From: Littleton, CO
Jun 18, 2008

We are in the process of contacting Mike and asking for the description to be updated with accurate information.

By WMcD
Aug 28, 2008

From the pictures, it looks like this a little crag in the Badger Flats called Valley of the Chickens. It is located off of Park County Road 31 in between Highway 24 and the Tarryall Road (CR 77). I can't remember the numbers of the roads that actually lead to the crag, but the rock is clearly visible below and to the right of Badger Mountain (the one with the antennas) when driving on CR31 from the Tarryall Schoolhouse toward 24. Veer right off of 31 at some mailboxes and pass a small ranch and pond on your left. Stay right near the signs for La Salle Pass and park at a large campsite directly beneath the crag. A 5 minute walk up an obvious trail leads to the rock.

About 15 moderate routes, some up to three pitches in length, ascend the chickenheads, cracks and faces. Although a few face routes are bolted, most protection is found in cracks and by slinging the large chickenheads. The routes are equipped with modern rap anchors. The rock quality is good, the features are unique, and the hardest established routes clock in around 5.10. The good climbing cannot be seen in the pictures currently posted for this area. Most of the established routes are located off the right side of these photos.

This area should probably be renamed--it is certainly not Terryall State Park.

By Daniel McNamara
From: Golden, CO
Sep 7, 2009

My family has been climbing at this area for years, but we have never seen anyone else (other than dirt bikers and target shooters).

We have no information on the routes other than our own experiences and would be interested in learning more. We've called it LaSalle Crag over the years, but that is probably not quite geographically accurate.

The rock is solid granite with interesting erosional features that make great holds. There are beautiful cracks, a few nice bolted routes in the 5.7-5.9 range and a very nice route for kids ~5.6 that can be protected by slinging only chickenheads and huecos. Most routes have nice anchors.

By Off Route
From: Woodland Park
Mar 23, 2013

Great climbing area on the east side of Wilkerson Pass. All the routes were bolted years ago by Bob Robertson and Carrie Lin. Was lucky enough to meet the both of them at the the rock last year. There are some new routes some local guys have put up in recent years - mostly some very short 5.11s. Great climbing spot with no crowds!

By Chris Perkins
From: Avon, Colorado
Jul 9, 2014

You can get a guide from Bob on his website for $5 in black and white. A few more bucks for color.
The climbing area is referred to as Badger Mtn area by Bob.
www.climbingpamphlet.com/