Terrorvision. I cannot think of a better name for this route - not for the faint of heart! The position of the belay alone will make your palms sweat!
Approach via the top of the huge pillar/buttress on the lower West face of the Witch (via Phosphorescent Flow?). An easy 5th-class traverse right will take you around to the south flank of the Witch. Terrorvision climbs the SE arete of the feature with amazing views of the lower reaches of the Warlock and the valley below... You feel alone up here... lots of air and not much else.
Set up a gear belay on a small perch on east side of the arete. The route clips a pin and then launches up an improbable overhanging arete on awkward but decent holds. Clip a couple bolts and then heel hook and pull over the roof onto the face left of the arete. Ascend this past 10 bolts to an anchor.
There are several 5.11/5.11+ cruxes and also long runouts past the last two bolts. Also, the bolts are old expansion bolts (this route would feel much safer if the ones on the overhanging portion were replaced; I remember one in particular that was hanging a half-inch out of the rock - I pushed it back in with my thumb before clipping it).
I believe you can climb easy rock to the summit with no gear, but we chose to rap, reverse the traverse, and rap back to the ground.
A dozen quickdraws for the route (a few slings for the first couple bolts), and a couple finger-size cams for the belay.
Vertical panorama of the belay ledge
Climber just above the overhang
Carlos Serrano amped up at the traverse belay! Wor...
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 18, 2007
A 1990 album title from the band Manufacture. Sarah McLachlan doing backing vocals, BTW.
Is there an other reference here?
Jan 18, 2007
Couple of possible second pitches:
- As via the guidebook, up and and a bit right through a roof. Marked 5.8 in the guide, this is quite possibly .10- climbing. Continue up up the seemingly endless slab. If you tend to the left, there is sparse gear available.
- Go a bit left off the belay, then head up the endless slab.
These two alternatives will come together at one point or another depending on how you wander about the face. Make no mistake, you'll be quite run out on technical but easier ground.
From the top head up to the normal descent on the left shoulder.
Sep 8, 2012
Climbed this route with Carlos Serrano on Tuesday, September 4, 2012. We approached via the first pitch of Witch Doctor. The climb is amazing, and will not be forgotten! Be cognizant of the fact that the rope could be loaded over a sharp edge if you fall above the overhang, unless perhaps you skip the bolt right at the overhang. The bolts on this route appear to be in good shape; they were not rusted, and none were sticking out. I speculate that they were replaced within the last few years.
|By Bob Rotert|
Feb 24, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
This is a classic that lived up to its name for me when I did it back in 1984. I had a very memorable and humbling incident on this route when My partner fell on the traverse. I had found no anchor at the end of my lead out of so I was only wedged into a firm stance in the water groove above. Unfortunately when she fell she pendulemed over the edge of the arÍte and swung out into free space. With no way to Lower her except into free space or pull her up and really no way to communicate over the wind. All I could do was hang on and hope she could extract herself from her situation. She eventually made slow progress prusiking up the rope to get back on the rock. I have never felt so helpless in my life, while this was going on. Fortunately she did a great job of keeping it together, ascending the rope and getting back on the rock. She was able to then climb up and join me. It was TERROR VISION for both of us for sure!! My advice, although it might seem obvious to most is, Try and find a belay anchor at the end of the pitch so you and your second don't end up in this situation.
Awesome route by Mike Lechlinski, Bruckman, & Mauri Gingery!!!! Needles Masters!!
|By Kyle Edmondson|
May 12, 2013
On the second pitch, if you go left, there is one bolt about 20 feet from the anchor of a 200 foot pitch. Otherwise nothing. It's easy, but slabby and grainy enough to be terrifying. If I do this again, I will go right. Also, the first pitch may be the best 5.11 I've ever done.