Terror in the Trailerpark 5.10d
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Scott making the crux move of TNT. Pinch with the...
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Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>>
The Lincoln National Forest Service continues its ban on bolting new routes (or, by permission only). However, climbing is currently allowed in all areas of Last Chance Canyon.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Fun sustained slabby face climbing route. Start up on fairly easy ground past the first two bolts to a nice rest under the roof. Hit the devious crux pulling the roof at the third bolt, (draw can be a reach to hang). From here it stays continuous for the next few bolts before easing off before the anchors.
No spiders this time around, but beware in the past I have had encounters with hoards of Daddy Longlegs in the pockets, bumping up the grade a bit.
This route gets a 10b in the original line topos, but our group decided it was closer 10d.
Location Route #4 on Monomaniac's topo's. Second route right of the prominent arete Texas Twister.
Protection Bolts to Anchors
Spider Repellant
| Comments on Terror in the Trailerpark |
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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Jan 30, 2008
rating: 5.10d
| I found all of the moderate routes I did at LCC to sandbagged (and all the hard routes were soft--how's that for ego stroking!). For the topos I provided, I adjusted the grades (based on my opinion) for the routes I've done, which ufortunately isn't very many. If the topo has a questioin mark by the grade, I definately haven't done it, but there are other routes on the topos that don't have question marks that I also have not done. In that case, I got the grade from someone I talked to who had done the route. |
By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Feb 15, 2008
rating: 5.10c
| Beta: Crux is at the third bolt. Clip the 3rd, and you can step down into a good rest before starting the business. Work back up and pinch a chockstone that sits back in a large pocket with your right. Set Right foot on a nob about 2 feet below, look for the skids. Left hand goes up to a triangle shaped dish. Right hand goes over to some chirps. Bump up your feet. Left hand has a nice three finger pocket. Then fire up to the jugs by the 4th. The rest is 5.8. |
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Feb 25, 2008
rating: 5.10d
| No spiders this time around. Great rock and fun moves, with a devious crux around the third bolt that detracts somewhat from the climbing. |
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