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Terror in the Trailerpark 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type: Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
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Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Jan 29, 2008
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Scott making the crux move of TNT. Pinch with the...

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Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Fun sustained slabby face climbing route. Start up on fairly easy ground past the first two bolts to a nice rest under the roof. Hit the devious crux pulling the roof at the third bolt, (draw can be a reach to hang). From here it stays continuous for the next few bolts before easing off before the anchors.

No spiders this time around, but beware in the past I have had encounters with hoards of Daddy Longlegs in the pockets, bumping up the grade a bit.

This route gets a 10b in the original line topos, but our group decided it was closer 10d.


Location 

Route #4 on Monomaniac's topo's. Second route right of the prominent arete Texas Twister.


Protection 

Bolts to Anchors
Spider Repellant



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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Jan 30, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

I found all of the moderate routes I did at LCC to sandbagged (and all the hard routes were soft--how's that for ego stroking!). For the topos I provided, I adjusted the grades (based on my opinion) for the routes I've done, which ufortunately isn't very many. If the topo has a questioin mark by the grade, I definately haven't done it, but there are other routes on the topos that don't have question marks that I also have not done. In that case, I got the grade from someone I talked to who had done the route.

By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Feb 15, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Beta: Crux is at the third bolt. Clip the 3rd, and you can step down into a good rest before starting the business. Work back up and pinch a chockstone that sits back in a large pocket with your right. Set Right foot on a nob about 2 feet below, look for the skids. Left hand goes up to a triangle shaped dish. Right hand goes over to some chirps. Bump up your feet. Left hand has a nice three finger pocket. Then fire up to the jugs by the 4th. The rest is 5.8.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Feb 25, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

No spiders this time around. Great rock and fun moves, with a devious crux around the third bolt that detracts somewhat from the climbing.