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Terror in de Skies
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Lost Horse Wall - Left Side
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Are You Experienced T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Are You Serious? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crosstown Traffic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dead Serious T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hesitation Blues T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Inside Out S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Just Another Crack from LA T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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LA Woman S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Terror in de Skies T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Todd Swain and Kip Knapp, January 1989 |
| Page Views: | 1,030 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | john durr on Mar 3, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Terror is yet another classic Todd Swain route where everything works out just fine, even though you expect something dreadful every move.
Just to the right of Are You Experienced is a huge, prominent block with a sharp left arete that is a ways up above the ground. The best part of Terror in de Skies climbs the left arete of the prominent block.
P1: Climb a 5.8 hand crack up to the block. Go up along the left arete of the block past three bolts to a ledge atop the block. Belay on the ledge.
P2: Above the ledge, climb an obvious crack system to the top of the wall. The rock is fairly gritty, but the climbing isn't too difficult.
Protection
A light rack of cams to hand size and three good bolts, one below the arete, one on the arete and one on the easy ground above. Well protected at the crux. Best done in two pitches due to rope drag. We wrapped the rope around blocks for both belays - otherwise you may have a hard time finding good anchors.
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