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|Bastille - M-F closures. Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>|
Territorial Integrity will never see too many ascents. The rock is rough and broken, runout and somewhat non-descript otherwise. It is not a beckoning line. Still, some of the moves are nice and it will keep you thinking on your feet.
On the Allosaur Wall, you can use a cordalette to hang a toprope from the rap anchor on the juniper tree on the wall's left edge. To reach this tree climb the Initial Route or Initial Hangover. Territorial Integrity goes up the left side of the Allosaur wall to this tree, but as a TR, you can really pick any line in this vicinity. The difficulty will be between 5.8 and 5.10b, depending on where you are. By picking the least broken and cleanest line, it seemed to check in at 5.9. Some wandering for gear or to avoid cruxes could knock this down to 5.8.
With wandering taken into account, a creative and experienced leader will likely find this to be a reasonable lead (S, not VS). That said, it is still no place to test your limits.
To descend, rap from the tree on a 70M rope to the huge ledge below Allosaur or a 60M rope to a small ledge, and then down-climb 10 feet to the main ledge.
This climb is listed as a Toprope in the Rossiter book, but with some wandering and creativity it can be lead as an S or VS climb. The quality of the pro and the and length of the runout will depend upon your rack, skill set and exact line of ascent. If you do intend to lead the climb take long runners as protecting it will require some wandering. Rack up with 1 set RPs, 1 set stoppers, small tricams, a set of TCUs and long slings.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 4, 2007
I did lead it, and I got a few other pieces.
(Edit: this was origionally a response to an AC comment about how it has not been lead and is unprotected)