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 ADVANCED
Terrible Twos Wall
Select Route:
Left and Right Practice Cracks T 
Pussy Bolt T 
Soapstone Dihedral T 
Terrible Two's T 
Thinner T 

Terrible Two's 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Brett Ruckman, Marco Cornacchione 5/15/93
Page Views: 717
Submitted By: josh holmes on Oct 10, 2008

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Description 

Definitely the best line at the crag. A distinct zig-zagging crack to the left of Thinner. Fairly sustained climbing with three distinct hard sections: 1) at the bottom getting to the first good stance, 2) at the traversing "Z" feature, and 3) the final fingery sprint to the anchor.

Location 

Drive up Grand Wash about a 1/2 mile or so and park just before the road narrows and dirt walls rise up on either side as you enter the canyon proper. There is a decent place to park on the south side of the road directly below the climbs. The wall is on the left hand side (north) of the canyon about 100 yards from the car. Terrible Two's and Thinner are obvious splitter cracks about 10 feet apart from each other. The practice cracks are to the right of Thinner in a small depression/alcovey thing and are hard to see from the road. To the left of Terrible Two's is the right facing, aptly named Soapstone Dihedral.

Protection 

2 .5 camalots, alot of .75 camalots ( I placed 4), about 4 #1 camalots, 1 #2 camalot, 2-3 green aliens, 2-3 yellow aliens, a blue metolious master cam went in great at the top. anchor as of 10/10/08 was 1 bolt, 1 drilled angle...both looked bomber, although the angle has probably been there since the FA.


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By josh holmes
Oct 17, 2008

it is all good fun...i am sorry about the heated exchange.
and much respect should be given to the Ruckman's contribution to the climbing community. Brett truly had a gifted eye when it came to scoping out new lines, at least when Steve Hong didn't get to them first.
By bvb
Feb 3, 2013

GREAT SPLITTER!