Terminator 5.12
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b/c [details] |
| FA: | FA Jason keith, FFA John Mattson |
| Season: | Spring, Summer, Fall |
| Submitted By: | Josh Janes on Jun 13, 2009 |
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Josh Janes and the Terminator.
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Description Terminator is perhaps *the* test piece crack at the Waterfall. Really cool climbing that will challenge all parts of your game. Begin as for Guacamole, but once through the chossy roof band (arrange gear carefully here to prevent rope drag) traverse left on a series of awesome buckets to the crack. You can't miss it. Solid jams to a stance, then full on liebacking through a bone-crunching tips section to a final boulder problem. Hasta la vista, baby.
Protection Triple set to 1".
Mike Sokoloff "I'll be BACK!"
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By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Jul 4, 2009
rating: 5.12c
| Fantastic route! Solid fingers to decent rest prior to a technical layback with a distinct crimpy crux. Arguably, you'd be hard pressed to find a better pitch of crackclimbing in Northern Arizona. |
By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
Dec 9, 2009
| It would be a perfect route, minus the ledge at 3/4 height. Even so its a must do route for Az.
In my mind its among the top 3 or 4 climbs in Northern AZ |
By Darren Singer
From: Portland, OR
May 6, 2010
| Back when this was a TR, there was the "telescoping" hold about 20' up - a thumb-sized stone wedged in the crack. The trick was to yank it out when it was overhead and then use as a foothold and final rest before launching upward. I was told that somebody 'heavier than me' finally snapped it off...
I could never muster a lead of this bad boy. The top section was just a bit too spicy to make a run for the anchors. Reminds me of Fish Crack in The Valley. It would be great to watch somebody lead this. |
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Jun 2, 2010
rating: 5.12c
| Small Metolius and BD cams make Terminator a safe lead. I recall the green BD (smaller one, not 0.75) to be the key piece to protect the crux. A good stack of grey BDs (5 or 6) was key for the bulk of the route. |
By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 2, 2013
| This climb kicks ass!!!! Laser Cut perfect finger splitter with a burly, crimpy, and desperate finish! 5 stars |
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