|Great Northern Slab
I absolutely love this route!!! Terminal Preppie offers multiple 5.11 cruxes with a great blend of power and finesse.
Climb easily to the first bolt, then ponder the first crux: an insecure friction sequence to nab a good jug below the roof. Undercling right and power over the bolt-protected roof (5.10 if you do it right), then balance up to a short crack/flake. Place a small wired if you want, or run it out to clip the first bolt of a fantastic three-bolt crimping sequence on matchstick to half-inch edges. The highly technical ultimate crux comes at the last bolt, starting off a good stance, which is good because it might take awhile to decipher.
Ah, but it's not over! After a moderate runout (good holds will appear), sidle up on a flake below the final roof and place a small wired (good placements). The final 5.11 crux pulls the roof on thin jams to a bomber rail, with a welcome horizontal hand crack at the back.
Approach as for Roger's Corner. Terminal Preppie is the first obvious route on the slab left of Roger's Corner.
5 bolts (old bolts replaced in 2007), plus a few supplemental pieces. Definitely bring small wireds for the upper roof and for protecting the small crack/flake above the first roof. A #1 Camalot works well in the flake getting to the first bolt. A #3 Wild Country Rock is perfect for the upper roof. You can place a #2 Camalot in the final horizontal hand crack.
|By Scott W|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 25, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c
Classic index slab. Hard levitation moves to good stances...and one crux after another till the chains. I think this route sports 4 5.11 cruxs. Beautiful.