Tent Peg 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Royal and Liz Robbins, 1964 |
| Submitted By: | Tyson S Arp on May 24, 2002 |
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Run it out to the solid anchors; after g...
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Description This route starts at the high point between Superpin and Tent Peg. Climb the obvious wide crack. At the end of the crack, traverse right around to the other side of the spire. This is easy at first then more difficult (use the force if necessary--it worked for me). The route finishes up a short but unprotected face. Be mindful of the way your rope is running. You'll need to place a long runner when you least want to. A one rope rappel will get you back to the ground.
Protection Medium to large cams for the beginning and smaller pieces for the traverse. There is a bolt anchor at the top.
Traverse
| start in the crack
| BETA PHOTO: Jason Haas as seen on the summit of the Tent Peg a...
| Joel Hagan with Laura Watson following
| Me on the final section.
| An alternative to the regular start is to climb a ...
| Brenda starts the final push to the summit of the ...
| The "Superman Summit Belly-Flop" perfectly execute...
| The best part of the climb.
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By Off2Climb Jun 29, 2005 rating: 5.7+
| Fun route. Nuts and large cams (Camalot #3) down low in the crack. Small cams (Camalot .3-.4) in the seam to protect the final face climb. Solid anchors. |
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Jul 30, 2006 rating: 5.8 PG13
| The climb may also start from the West side up some rather dank and mossy cracks for 10 or 15 meters. This involves a 5.8 move to stand up, then 5.6 from there. You climb up to get on the better and cleaner rock where the formation starts looking like a pin & where the route officially begins. This beginning may require some judgment and skill to protect and climb safely. Despite its 5.7 rating it is probably not the best lead for a beginner. The top has room for 2 "Au Cheval." |
By joelhagan From: Rapid City, SD Mar 5, 2007 rating: 5.7 PG13
| This was my first trad lead! Great to be out in early March...already my 6th needles climbing day of the year. I slung the first flake and ran it out to the top, would have felt more comfortable had I put at least one nut before the final arete. I placed a small nut, a #3 and #4 cam in the crack and single length runner on the first flake. |
By Rich F. From: Colorado Springs, CO Jul 28, 2009 rating: 5.7 PG13
| Climbed the Tent Peg, but started on the opposite (North) side in a wide crack that faces the Hairy Pin. Climbed up, then traversed around to the left to join the same final runout to the top. Fun climb, with terrific exposure heading to the top, and a super small summit. |
By Floridaputz From: Oakland Park, Florida May 25, 2010
| I started on the East side, between the two spires super pin & tent peg. A narley crack with 2 small trees leads up to the better second half. Then up to the beautiful finish. I used cams 1-4 and nuts. Two bolt anchor. |
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