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Creekside
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Tenshun 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: J. Steiger, C. & J. Saviers-Steiger, June 16, 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 368
Submitted By: John Steiger on Aug 7, 2007

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Description 

This route climbs the steepest crack line on the narrow north buttress of Upper Creekside. Scamble up to a wide crack and work up face holds just right to a steep thin crack that eventually protects moves over a small bulge to lower angle climbing above.

This is not in Bingham's 2004 ed. guide and some of the placements needed to be cleaned out, so it appears most likely a FA. My partners (ages 9 and 11) thought it was 5.8.

Location 

Approximately 60 feet left of Old Timer, around the corner on the north buttress facing the south buttress of the Anteater. Descend by rapping from the anchors atop This Spud's For You (tricky to get to and requires at least a 70m rope) or the anchors on top of one of the Office routes.

Protection 

Standard trad rack.


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