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Tennoiwa/ Emperor Rock
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Tennoiwa/ Emperor Rock 


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Lat, Long: 35.737, 139.1872 Map
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Administrators: Eddie Gianelloni, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Eddie Gianelloni on Dec 29, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: A quick photo of the left side of the main area.
1...


Description 

A small crag located on hwy 201 west of Akiruno. The cliff ranges from 15 to 25 meters and is a great area for beginners. Tennoiwa is a great place for the beginner to climb in the summer, but will take a couple of days to dry due to the low hanging dense trees. There are two main cliffs here with about 50 routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.12.

There is a very large parking lot across the street from the crag. This is a paid parking area and is mainly for the International Fishing club down the street. If there is an event or not very many spots available you will not be able to part here. There is also a smaller free lot farther up the road. Same rules here too. Currently there is no clear "climber" parking. Since this is primarily a guiding area, there is a plan in the works now to try and be able to use the larger parking area. Keep this in mind.

The Bathrooms in the parking area can be used by climbers but you must ask permission from the parking attendants.


Getting There 

From Tokyo by train take the Chuo line to the Itsukaichi line. Get off at the Musashi Itsukaichi Station. Then take a bus transfer to the large parking lot on Hwy 201.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Tennoiwa/ Emperor Rock:
20) Crack Joy   5.9     Sport, 40 feet   Main Area
9) Tsuyushirazu "Never Knew It"   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Lower Area
4) NooRii    5.10b/c     Sport, 60 feet   Lower Area
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Featured Route For Tennoiwa/ Emperor Rock
Start

4) NooRii 5.10b/c  International : Japan : ... : Lower Area
Between 2nd and 3rd bolt. After bolt two, grab the crack to the left of the bolt. Scramble up and get your legs near the overhang area. Hang off your left arm and drop your right knee as you place the 3rd bolt. Your body will tend to lean into the wall. Now for the hard part...video:youtu.be/gax8-DNhKYQ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International