A great candidate for your first T-Wall 11 (if you can crack climb, that is). Carefully crank a V1/2 boulder problem off the deck and get established in the beautiful splitter. "Surf" through the wave about halfway up, encountering classic locks and jams along the way.
Location
To the left of Molly and Rocket.
Protection
A good range of cams and nuts, emphasis on the finger-sized stuff.
By Nick Stayner From: Tuolumne Meadows Mar 19, 2008
A friend of mine thinks this route is soft, especially compared to No More Tiers. I think 11a is right for the lower boulder problem, but who rates the first 10 feet of a T-Wall climb? The rest is more like 10+.
I would offer a different opinion. It took me a couple of years to sack up and press out that starting move, and I'm pretty sure I pulled up the rack after I stood up. This was not my first-ever .11a, so I felt safe in asserting that the move was harder than that. Of course, no move in the first 10 feet counts towards the route's grade, so call it what you like.
As for someone thinking this route is soft, I would be interested in knowing if they stick clipped a nut up high to negotiate the start. As for the first ten feet not counting, nonsense. If you can blow it and bust your ass in those first ten feet.... then it counts.
By Nick Stayner From: Tuolumne Meadows Nov 22, 2008
Hah. I don't consider this route (or anything at the T Wall for that matter) soft. My previous comment was poking fun at the frustrating tendency of T Wall route beginnings being quite hard!
You can nasty through just right of the mantle (savage bearhug) at about the same grade (11a har har har) with some semidecent pro. Sick route, 5 star.
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