Finger Lockin' Good 

This pitch's popularity belies the 1-star rating as do the three stars (out of three) the guidebook gives it. It's not very long, but it is a sweet crack and for the TWall, a soft touch for the grade.

David G. is right, my personal star rating was unfairly skewed by the fact that my technique is just not up to this route! I've bumped it to two stars and also noted that the Cragger gives it a three-star rating.

If it were longer this route would be four stars. Perfect finger locks and great gear. I thought that there were good rests (for a 10b finger crack) for placing pro. I would suggest bringing some very small wires for the top section, the climbing eases but the pro gets thin.

In 1992 I dislocated a finger on this route. Fingerlocking on good pods, I stepped up high and reached for the next lock. My foot cut from the smear and I was downward bound. Rather than pull my fingers and take a fall on my gear, I instinctively tried to hold on. Silly me. The finger-locks did hold, but when my center of gravity had dropped 3 feet onto two knuckles it was more than they could bear.

Ouch! That's one of my reals fears about crack climbing ( along with peeling with my foot stuck).

If someone were to cut those slings out of the cave, we'd have a real classic on our hands here. After all, how many other routes on 90' cliffs end arbitrarily just because someone found a thread?

Has anyone actually done the finish? The book says to stay on the face, but there's also a dihedral right above the crack...

There are new anchors at the very top of the cliff now...

Bailing at those slings is definitely weak sauce, the top part is fun!

Y'all can stop complaining and worrying...the slings are gone. There are now a set of rap rings a little ways above them. As was mentioned...