hands is the obvious crack just left of the tree i...
Description
My vote for the most intimidating looking single pitch of trad cimbing in the South if not the country. Walking up to the base this climb does NOT look 5.12. Upon closer inspection bomber jams and locks are to be found but you gotta earn this one. This has probably seen less than 10 ascents since the first in '85. That's saying something with world standards so high.
I'd love to know the exact number. Shipoopi was rumored to have barely missed the onsight falling at the last roof. If anyone has onsighted it I'd love to hear about it. This is a proud climb and one of Rob Robinson's finest. Get psyched.
Location
Can't miss the monster double (triple?) tiered roofs at the top of approach trail.
Protection
This climb is a logistical nightmare. Double ropes MANDATORY. When you get to the lip of the big roof clip fixed pro with second rope. Once established in the corner untie first rope. Standard rack.
The cruxes aren't where you'd think they'd be. You can also do the "Jerry Roberts" method in which you tie into both ends of the rope and drop the "first 1/2" after the 2nd roof no need for doubles...the midpitch anchor was pretty shoddy and not equalized as of 2/08. This climb can be wet depending on the mood of the h20 fall.