Located on a narrow buttress of rock with a steep cave at ground level, just right of the 13 with the chains and Mrs. Socrates.
Climb up through an intial band of roofs on jugs, then plug in some high gear before pulling unto the face above via some powerful liebacks. This upper face is somewhat obscured from view by the trees, but it contains a nice wide crack with many face holds.
This is just around the corner from the wall with Golden Locks, Cake Walk, et al. Great route with great gear and fun moves....it just keeps on going...
I remember the gear being somewhat less than ideal in the first 20'. I could be wrong about that though. Awesome crack climbing above the powerful roof, though.
Here's the skinny...go up on the first roof, throw a #2 up in the big loose flake so if you go over the falls you won't hit the reef. Once up on the ledge, lay down in an undignified fashion and pull your cam. Step up to the real deal and pop a couple of pieces in. get ready for awkward cranks all the way through the scoop...it's on.
T-Wall North
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