A climber on Goldenlocks. I wasn't climbing with t...
Description
One of the true T-Wall classics, Golden Locks may be the most popular route at the crag. Its beautiful splitter crack is instantly recognizable, and the exposure above the Tennessee River far below makes for great photo opportunities. Golden Locks may also be the most sandbagged T-Wall line: many leaders have been humbled by this stiff 5.8.
It's wise to have a spotter ready for the overhanging, bouldery start; possibly the toughest move on the route. Once you get past this early crux, route-finding isn't an issue: follow the obvious hand crack straight up the cliff, pausing for a welcome rest at a shallow cave. Save some pro and energy reserves for the steeper sections toward the top.
Location
Starts in a wide section of the wall about 35' past Razor Worm; other climbs in the area include Cake Walk.
Protection
Medium to large cams; hexes could be helpful. Bolted anchor at the top (on the right face of an overhang just below the cliff top).
Great route. The crux is definitely getting to the crack via the pumpy start with a less than appetizing landing on a pointed rock. Spotter here = good.
This route DOES have a bolted anchor. It is slightly hidden from view because it faces towards nutrasweet, climb all the way to the top and it is up there.
By Peter Kananen From: Cincinnati, OH Mar 23, 2008 rating: 5.9
I didn't use anything larger than a 3, but did use a couple TCUs for the lower section. Fun.
T-Wall North
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