Tennessee Wall

TN valley behind the golden locks

Description 

Tennessee Wall is one of the premier trad climbing destinations in the Southeast. Located just outside of Chattanooga, it features hundreds of great routes on beautiful hard sandstone. There’s something for leaders at all levels here, from trad novices to the hardest of the hardcore. (There’s even a few sport routes, but they’re not for the faint-hearted.) T-Wall truly has enough variety to keep you climbing for years.

Route development at T-Wall began in 1984, when climbers Rob Robinson, Arno Ilgner and Roger Fleming discovered the cliffline while searching for another crag. Some of the earliest lines (the first was In Sight of Power, 5.8+) were put up in what is now referred to as T-Wall South. Classics like Art, Passages and Prerequisite for Excellence soon followed, and development continued through the early 90s. New routes are still being established today, especially in the South section.

T-Wall is predominantly a single-pitch crag, though there are some multi-pitch routes, mainly in the south section. Except where noted in the route descriptions, protection tends to be plentiful, and a rack of nuts, tricams and cams up to 4” is standard. Over the years, rapping from trees at the top of the crag was the norm, but pine beetle infestations have been killing many of the trees, so use of bolted anchors is steadily increasing. If you do rap from a slung tree, don’t blindly trust it! A look at some of the fallen trees along the trail slung with old tat will drive this point home.

As a south-facing crag, T-Wall is in full sun all day. This makes it a terrific winter destination (think t-shirts in January), and a miserable place in the summer. Prime time at T-Wall is September through June.

Camping is available at the parking turn-off; this area now sports a pit toilet. There is also pay camping further down the road. One note of caution (whether or not you’re camping): there have been numerous car break-ins at the parking lot over the years. The best way to avoid being a victim is to not leave anything of value in your vehicle.

After climbing, there’s lots of good options for eating near T-Wall. As you come back down the road from the crag, don’t pass up Shuford’s Barbecue, where you can enjoy pulled pork, ribs and banana pudding as Bear Bryant looks down on you from framed photos on the wall. Back in Chattanooga, Lupi’s Pizza is another climber favorite.

As with most other southern climbing areas, the Dixie Cragger’s Atlas by Chris Watford is the guidebook to have on hand. The DCA has a “pocket” edition for T-Wall alone that will lighten the weight in your backpack. If you need climbing gear, hit Rock Creek Outfitters in Chattanooga.

Getting There 

Tennessee Wall is located in Prentice-Cooper Wildlife Management Area. From downtown Chattanooga, take US 27 north. About a mile after crossing the Tennessee River, exit on 127 north (Signal Mountain Road). Continuing toward Signal Mountain about 1.5 miles, turn left on Suck Creek Road (27 west). Continue about four miles (past a cement plant) to a bridge over Suck Creek and make an immediate left onto Mullens Cove Road (aka River Canyon Road). Follow this road through a residential area along the river for about six miles to the campsite parking lot for T-Wall. The trail to the crag starts a short distance from the parking lot.

Access Issues 

There are seasonal hunting closures in the spring and fall. Sneak in and you risk a hefty fine, so don't do it!

Spring 2007 hunt closures:

April 3-8
April 10-12
April 19-21
April 24-29

Up-to-date information is also posted on the Southeastern Climbers Coalition web site.

Featured Route For Tennessee Wall

Points O' Contact 5.10c  Tennessee : Tennessee Wall : T-Wall North

Start in a small left-facing corner capped by a small roof. Pull this roof up onto the face above and follow a dwindling crack. Things get thin up high! Bolted anchor....[more]

Add Photo Photos of Tennessee Wall

The view	Fall colors at the T-Wall	night bouldering at the campsite photo: robbie bu...
View of T-Wall westward in late December