Black Magic 

FA:  Rob Robinson, Clint Henley, Peter Henley - 1981 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10c/d [details] Length:  2 pitches, 110 feet Views: 66 page views Submitted By: bbrock on Jul 15, 2009 Add Photo  Add Comment

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negotiating the start of the first pitch

Description 

First pitch- Up through overhanging blocks split by a crack. I bypassed all this nonsense by jug hauling to the right. Next part of the pitch is very dirty.

Second Pitch- From bolted anchors up and right over a roof on tough finger locks. I never saw a pin anywhere. Up blank face and under a perfect hand crack splitting a big roof. Jam and then jug haul to the top.

The second pitch is what you're doing this route for. Dont be detered by the dirty first pitch.

Location 

On the Black Magic Buttress; starts 30' right of Trailside Trials.

Protection 

Up to #3 camalot. Small cams for start of second pitch

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second pitch