More Fun with Dick and Jane 

FA:  Forrest Gardner - 1986 (FRA) Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9- [details] Length:  1 pitch, 90 feet Views: 75 page views Submitted By: Ben Lyon on May 19, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Full view of the route.

Description 

Layback and smear up the flake getting good gear as you go, transition into the crack and move up to a good rest on a ledge above. Steel your nerves, get yo' mind right and slip and slide up the slopers and edges until you reach a final slopey rail with poor feet...now, figure out how to let go and clip the rings at the same time...

Location 

Located in Sunset North section, 10' left of The Diamond. Start is marked by a big, sweeping flake at the base... Look at the photo.

Protection 

Sew it up down low. There is very little gear after the flake/crack. There is one horizontal that will take a pink tricam/0.4 Camalot at chest height once on the small ledge after the crack and another pocket that will take a 00 TCU 5' after that. Then, it is a 25' unprotected run to the top on slopers and edges.