A wonderfully-misnamed route, since most beginners will probably not find chimney climbing particularly easy. The Dixie Cragger's Atlas lists this at 5.5, but most leaders find it a grade or two harder. Excellent protection and a good opportunity for practicing chimney technique make Beginner's Route a fun lead.
Starting below the obvious V-shaped chimney, make a bouldering move into the slot and work your way up to a slight overhang. Transition out of the chimney and up a crack to a slabby finish.
Location
Starts about 15' left of Water in Motion. Rap from a tree with fixed slings and quicklinks.
Protection
Standard rack, no big gear required. Build an anchor using trees and pro.
This climb is longer then it looks from the ground, and a lot more fun. The transition from chimney to turning and stemming at the top is a memorable (fun) series of moves.
Sunset North
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