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Rusty's Crack 

5.10a

   

FA: Tom Martin, Noel McGlothin, and Tom Kimbro 1964
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 90 feet
Views: 970 page views

Submitted By: Danny Inman on Jun 4, 2007


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stef humping, er I mean seconding Rusty's


Description 

This route begins in an obvious flared chimney. Climb the chimney and work out a large roof via the splitter 4" crack. Pull the roof and jam the crack until it ends at a ledge. From the ledge climb the steep and exposed face to a set of ring anchors.


Location 

From the trail turn right. The route is located in the main area just past the closures.


Protection 

Standard rack up to a #4 WC Friend. An old-sized #3.5 camalot is nice for the crack above the roof. The face section accepts mainly finger size and smaller.



Photos of Rusty's Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Pulling the crux on Rusty's Crack<br />photo by Doug Liedle

Pulling the crux on Rusty's Crack
photo by Doug Li...


Scott pulling moves on Rusty's Crack, Sunset, TN.

Scott pulling moves on Rusty's Crack, Sunset, TN.

This is why you endure that burly roof and stupid offwidth...to get HERE. This is the good stuff !!<br /><br />Photo credit to Ben Lyon

This is why you endure that burly roof and stupid ...

It doesn't get much better than this. Sunset ROCKS!<br /><br />Photo by Ben Lyon

It doesn't get much better than this. Sunset ROCKS...


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By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Atlanta, GA
Aug 24, 2008
rating: 5.10b

Excellent! The moves are all there if you can get a good jam high enough to place your feet well. Maybe next time I will . . .