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Bill's Route 

5.8

   

FA: Bill Smith and Steve Jones - 1977
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 100 feet
Views: 462 page views

Submitted By: Danny Inman on May 6, 2007


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Tom O. moves up the lower section of Bill's Route,...


Description 

This route begins just left of Jefferson Airplane. Follow the left-leaning crack to the prominent roof. Negotiate this (crux) and climb the steep corner and face to a two-bolt anchor.


Location 

Same as Jefferson Airplane.


Protection 

Standard rack, thin wires and tcu's protect the crux.



Comments on Bill's Route Add Comment
Show which comments —
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Atlanta, GA
Jul 8, 2007
rating: 5.8+

Great lead! Stays on you most of the way. The squeeze V-slot is an interesting problem to solve.

By charlie collins
Sep 1, 2008

the vslot would be an interesting lead for a 5.8 leader; its pretty awkward or i suck at vslots; hard to tell

By Joey Wolfe
Sep 21, 2008
rating: 5.8

The V-slot, once your back is in, is a no hands rest. So don't let it intimidate you. It is awkward to get into and out of, but just relax and THINK. I thought it was just a touch PG-13 in a couple of places, typical Sunset finish.

By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jun 2, 2009

Better gear out left at crux is bigger and reduces rope drag when extended. Relieved to find it. Heady old school 5.8!

By Ben Hogan
From: Chattanooga, TN
Jul 4, 2009

Somehow managed to get a red BD stopper stuck about 3/4 the way up in a hole. Was running on tight schedule and had to leave it, if anyone gets it out and feels like they need to return it :) ... just PM me. Great climb by the way.