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Sunset North

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A Sense of Adventure 
Alpha Omega 
Arena, The 
Beginner's Route 
Bill's Route 
Broemel's Route 
Broken Arrow 
Bubble Bath 
Copperhead 
Crazy Eights 
Flagstone 
Friday the Thirteenth 
Ghost Dancers 
Grand Cave, The 
Heavy Hands 
Jams and Shams 
Jefferson Airplane 
Mineral Fright 
More Fun with Dick and Jane 
One-Ten 
R.J. Gold 
Rusty's Crack 
S'More 
Scream Wall 
Scream Wall Direct 
Slip Stream 
Spring Break 
Stan's Crack 
Stan's Crack Direct Finish 
Terrier in Trouble 
Thin Pockets 
Total Eclipse 
Water in Motion 

Sunset North

Submitted By: saxfiend on Nov 23, 2006
Administrators: saxfiend, Brad Killough IV
Views: 6,358 page views

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Description 

Home of some of the earliest routes at Sunset. Classics include Bill's Route (5.8), Rusty's Crack (5.10a/b) and Jefferson Airplane (5.10a).


Getting There 

Take the trail down from the small parking lot at the top. When you come to the main cliffline trail, go right to Sunset North.

An alternative approach (with much better parking) is the trail from below the cliff, which starts at the Craven house. Follow this trail up for a little over a mile until you pass the park service kiosk; shortly after this, you'll be at the furthest end of the Sunset North climbs.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sunset North:
One-Ten   5.6     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Slip Stream   5.7+     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Bill's Route   5.8     Trad, 100 feet   
Stan's Crack   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
Broemel's Route   5.8+     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Ghost Dancers   5.8+     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
S'More   5.8+     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
More Fun with Dick and Jane   5.9-     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
Thin Pockets   5.9 PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Bubble Bath   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
R.J. Gold   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
Stan's Crack Direct Finish   5.9+     Trad, 95 feet   
Broken Arrow   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Jefferson Airplane   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Rusty's Crack   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
Scream Wall Direct   5.10a/b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
Alpha Omega   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
Flagstone   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet   
Browse More Classics in Sunset North

Featured Route For Sunset North
Redpointing RJ.  Photo courtesy of Ben L.

R.J. Gold 5.9  TN : Sunset Park : Sunset North
R.J. is a great introduction to the grade with good gear and a variety of different types of climbing from fingers, hands, a roof and some slab moves.Starts just right of Mineral Fright and Jefferson Airplane, about 20 ft left of the detached pinnacle in a thin crack. Follow this crack up and right to a hand crack. When the handcrack ends, angle up and left to a roof and a single bolt on the final slabby moves to the bolt anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in TN