BETA PHOTO: View of the Flying Squirrel Buttress at the road.
Description
Who would have thought you could do an alpine climb in Tennessee!
P1: Scramble up on a small ledge, climb a right-facing flake, then step right and climb to an alcove beneath a bulge. Squirm throught a slot in the bulge, angle right to a vegetated ledge. Walk approximately 30 feet to the left on a very narrow ledge to a solid root on a cedar tree and belay (5.8) 140'. P2: Move left from the belay and climb loose and crumbly rock for two or three moves, then move right below a huge right-arching corner on good rock. Angle right, pull an awkward overhang and belay on a solid tree (5.8+) 100'. P3: Head up towards the large roof for a couple of moves then gingerly move left onto the face of the buttress on various sized blocks. Be careful as some of the blocks are loose. Climb left of the roof to a live tree on the top of the buttress (5.8-) 70'.
Location
Located on the Flying Squirrel Buttress. Start: 50 feet to the right of the orange rock on Flying Fortress (5.10a). A double rope rappel is needed to reach slings on a tree at the top of the first pitch. A total of two raps are needed from the top. Killer hanging rappel from the roof top.
The Flying Squirrel Buttress can be seen about 1.1 miles up the canyon road at a large pull out on the right. Scramble down the hillside, cross the creek and make your way up to the buttress easiest way possible.
Protection
Standard rack with some smaller sized cams. Nothing larger than a #3 BD cam.
By Paul Barnes From: Gainesville, Georgia Dec 16, 2007 rating: 5.8-
The photos posted here by Amy are very helpful in locating the start of pitches 1 and 2. Continue left on the ledge at the top of P1 past a big pile of loose rock and a tree, to the 2nd (smaller) tree.
By Micah Gentry From: Chattanooga, TN Mar 24, 2008
Suck Creek Canyon
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