Whatsherface 

FA:  Glenn Ritter Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.13a [details] Length:  80 feet Season:  Winter Views: 235 page views Submitted By: Christopher Barlow on Dec 29, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

Whatsherface is a great route on a clean, slightly overhanging panel of golden sandstone. The first crux comes low with sequential, fingery climbing to a fun toss to a jug. Rest up on good feet and horizontal hand jams, then climb sustained rock to the upper, very low percentage, crux. Easier, but very pumpy climbing through the final roofs brings you to the Captain Hook-style cold shut anchors.

Location 

Whatsherface is a bit right of the Tierrany Roof area proper. Start about 50 ft right of the end of the long, flat, sunbathing boulder at the base of the wall. The first hold is a horizontal jug/pinch. Above the second bolt is a long, right-slanting rail (with a conspicuous hueco just below it) leading to the third bolt.

Protection 

10 bolts. The climbing to the first bolt is tricky, maybe use a long stick-clip. An extended draw is nice for the crux bolt as it is not the best of holds to clip from. Lower with a 60m rope from open cold shuts.