The first route done on the wall and still a classic. Tieranny is heavily chalked and begins just left of center on the wall. It follows a line of fixed draws out the roof that is just left of a bolted seam (The Probe) that also extends out the roof. Ends at chains hanging down from a break below the lip.
Climb the difficult face up to a good stance at rings below the roof. This is a sandbag at 5.10 and a difficult warmup. Continue out the roof on the fixed draws to a definite crux involving a left foot heel hook and a couple hard pulls on smaller holds to yet another jug.
Protection
A dozen draws or so. PG13 rated without a stick clip. It would be a real service to bring a half dozen 18" lengths of chain to replace the totally manky fixed draws under the roof. The quicklinks and biners are already there -- all you'd need would be pliers!
Pascal and Kris Klein showed up and climbed it on natural gear. I think just to stick it to Glenn and the crew. The pro would clearly be solid. I don't remember the year. Chris Chestnut considered soloing it at one time many years ago as did KB. I didn't ever hear of them pulling it off though.
I climbed the route about 100 times and considered trying to solo it, got a wild hair one day and climbed up to the roofs, chickened out and climbed down. Thank god I did. I think I would have just freaked out at the crux. Oh how I miss Obed. Great memories there.
Matt Nasty and crew used take like 60 footers off the chains. They'd climbed over the lip pull up a bunch of slack and whip to about 30 feet off the ground. The good ol' days.
Tieranny Roofs
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