Dixie Cragger's gives this route two stars, but I think the public disagrees. We found it covered with lovely, green algae. I don't think it sees much traffic.
Romp up the steep start with good jams and locks. Locate and admire the ergonomically superior three-finger pocket on the face. Grunt through the slippery, hopeless upper section of crack toward victory.
Location
Toward the right end of Lilly Bluff. Look for a steep, bolted(!) hand crack that leads up through a slot/dihedral.
Protection
sport: 5 bolts, anchors out right trad: standard rack, maybe a #4 Camalot C4 for the upper crack section? Be wary of cam placements in the crack, as parts of it are SLIPPERY.
Lilly Bluff
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