Mountain Project: Climbing Obed & Clear Creek

Submitted By: Josh Janes on Nov 28, 2006
Administrators: saxfiend, Brad Killough IV
Latitude: 36.1166 Longitude: -84.7317
Aerial photo/map | Weather
Views: 15,933 page views

Add Area Add Photo Add Comment Add Event

Discussions available in the
Southern States
Message Forum

Description

The confluence of Clear Creek and the Obed River are home of a series of beautiful sandstone cliff bands and some of the best sport climbing in the Southeast. Just bring a rack of draws, a stick clip (high first bolts are commonplace in these parts), and guns (double entendre intended). The rock here is Cumberland Plateau sandstone, and the sedimentary layering of the rock tends to form huge horizontal roofs, jugs, and slopers. The rock is generally bullet hard and provides good friction. Climbing happens year-round — chase the shade or sun depending on the season.

There are several camping areas but by far the best is Del & Marti Scruggs' place. Del lives in the heart of the Obed and has quite a bit of land that he graciously offers to traveling climbers: As you drive into the Obed, after passing Doc Howard Road on the left, Ridge Road drops steeply down to the Lilly Bridge. Just before this drop there is a mailbox and a gravel drive to the right. Turn here and bear left at the fork. Camping rules and the pay kiosk are on the left (the fee is $5 per person, per night). If you make use of this incredible resource please leave the area nicer than you found it and be considerate: The Scruggs live right amongst the "campsites" which are actually just pulloffs along their driveway. Make sure to bring food/beer/stories to share around the fire on weekends!

Getting There

About 45 minutes NW of Knoxville. Take highway 27 North through Harriman and Wartburg. Take a left onto highway 62 and follow this windy road through the town of Lancing. After about three miles, turn left again on Ridge Road. This road brings one to the Obed and Clear Creek after only a few miles. For more specific directions, see the area pages.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Obed & Clear Creek:

Coco Puffs 5.7 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet South Clear Creek : Image Wall

Rocking Chair 5.9- Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Lilly Bluff

Shadowhawk 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet South Clear Creek : Image Wall

Fat Lady Sings 5.9+ Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet South Clear Creek : The Balcony

Best Seat In The House 5.9+ Sport, 85 feet South Clear Creek : The Balcony

Ticks Are For Kids 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Lilly Bluff

Tarantella 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Lilly Bluff

Backlash 5.10 Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet South Clear Creek : Image Wall

Double Feature 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet South Clear Creek : The Balcony

Spawn 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet South Clear Creek : Image Wall

Lounge Lizard 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Lilly Bluff

Liposuctor 5.11b/c Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet North Clear Creek : North Clear Creek

Featured Route For Obed & Clear Creek

Darren on Rage. Photo by Micah Gentry.<br />Never met you Micah but thanks for this photo. It is one of my favorites.

Rage 5.12c TN : Obed & Clear Creek : ... : Stephen King Library

Start just to the right of the corner that is the route It. Climb Pet Semetary to the roof, catch a shake, and make the transition from vertical to horizontal. Climb through the next seven bolts of roofy madness. (The first five bolts of the roof are considered 11c, so be ready for the business at the end.) If you can make it to the lip of the roof, catch a tricky heel hook rest and go for the chains....[more] Browse More Classics in TN

Photos of Obed & Clear Creek

Slideshow

Add Photo

I think this is Wheatward Bound at Lilly. 12	Dave on Heresy 11c at Lily	This is the route to the right of Yakuza on the Ga...
May be tieranny roofs......really not sure was a l...

Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
	ADVANCED