Speedway Boogie climbs the crack to a roof/jug and...
Description
This may be the nicest moderate sport route at Leda. From a crack climbing start to balancy face moves, it's a fun challenge all the way.
Starting at an obvious crack just left of a small arete, use hand jams or layback to work your way up to a welcome huge jug just under the high first bolt (stick clipping may make the strenuous start more mentally bearable). Continue up the face with crimps and reachy incuts to the top.
As with most other Leda routes, the DCA rating of 5.7 is something of a sandbag.
Location
Starts just left of the Fanfair arete and 15' right of Free to Think.
By saxfiend Administrator From: Atlanta, GA May 27, 2008
Still one of my favorites at Leda. This time I skipped the stick clip for the start and jammed the crack instead of laybacking; felt pretty secure, but it was still nice to grab the huge hero jug to clip that first bolt.