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Ethnic Cleansing 

5.12b/c

   

FA: Eddie Whittemore, 1993
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12a/b [details]
Views: 412 page views

Submitted By: FC John on Dec 4, 2006


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

Outstanding Foster Falls test piece at the grade. Moderate 5.11 climbing leads to one distinct dyno (a static move for climbers over 6 ft) crux with strenuous climbing until you reach the chain anchor.


Location 

On the right side of the Right Bunker.


Protection 

Six Bolts to a chain anchor



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By 426
Feb 28, 2007

DCA gives this a 12b/c, but it may be harder since a block at the anchor fell off a few years ago. I think it's solid c.

For me, crux was making the anchor clip.

Could use bolt replacement on crux "spinner". The consequences of that bolt failing could be very dire.

By bbrock
From: Al
Mar 24, 2007

I noticed that bolt needs it nut tightened. Maybe a glue in would be better. Yes the consequences of that bolt failing would be about as bad as it gets

By Ryan J
May 21, 2007

Ethnic is solid 12b. The 'dyno' is a trick move that is maybe V1. The redpoint crux is usually clipping the chains.

As of 19May2007 both anchor biners are new.

By yevquest
From: Southeast,US
Feb 8, 2008
rating: 5.12a

12a and the worst route in the right bunker. I can only assume its popularity is due to the crazy soft grade that people want to give this route. Abacus and Bottled Up Warrior are so much better and only 30 feet away.

By Gonzo
Jul 9, 2008

Fun route, but no better than 2 stars. Probably 12A.