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Buzzard Point

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Buzzard Point

Submitted By: Brad Killough IV on Nov 23, 2008
Administrators: saxfiend, Brad Killough IV
Elevation: 500 feet
Views: 388 page views

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  Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!

Arno Ligner classic "A.I.D.S Crack"


Description 

Really nice area in Laurel/Snow Falls in Pocket Wilderness. On a huge point dividing the gorge. This Buttress has good sun most of the day.
Rock quality is good. Has been awhile since some of the anchors have been replaced due to the access problems in in the past.
Nice fall/winter sport crag. And some spicy trad. A lot of these routes are done with old school style in mind.
A lot of these routes were started probably in 1977 with the likes of Rob Robinson and Bruce Rodgers. Then around the early 80's some other southern climbers came on the scene like James Dobbs,Ron Davis,Charles Kable, Shannon Stegg, Chris Chesnutt, along with Jeff Gruenberg and his hard line "Pieta" which might of very well been the first 5.14 in the southern realm. Later Rob Robinson and Glenn Ritter put more lines into play.
Some of these routes are on the Point.


Getting There 

It is in Dayton Tennessee.Take I-24 to Chattanooga and from there take hwy 27 north to Dayton. Turn left on Walnut Grove Rd. for 1.5 miles. Turn left on Back Valley Rd.for about a mile,turn right on Richland Creek Rd.Dirt Rd. and continue to the Parking lot and trail head.
From I-40, hit hwy 27 south toward dayton and when you get to Dayton take a right on Walnut grove Rd. and follow above for the rest.
[There is a new entrance, by taking Hwy 30 to the top of Dayton Mtn. and take the first right at the top, this is Rogers Road, follow around till you see the parking lot and entrance to the drive in section]. Follow the road to the end and take the dirt road to the point, a 4X4 would help!


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Buzzard Point:
The Tall Cool One   5.11d     Trad, Sport, 70 feet   
Browse More Classics in Buzzard Point

Featured Route For Buzzard Point
Chris' cover shot from Climbing Magazine...circa 1992

The Tall Cool One 5.11d  TN : Buzzard Point
Nice and pumpy sport/trad Was featured on the cover of Climbing Magazine 1992, White arete. I was informed that a couple of years ago this route has went free....[more]   Browse More Classics in TN


Photos of Buzzard Point Slideshow Add Photo
Have yourself some of this"Tall Cool One"

Have yourself some of this"Tall Cool One"

Snow Falls.

Snow Falls.

One of the locals; this copperhead is in a crack I had just put my hand in earlier. This is at the base of A.I.D.S. Crack.

One of the locals; this copperhead is in...

Bradley Killough snagging the dyno section of the route Pocket Wilderness 5.12 c/d. Buzzard Point.

Bradley Killough snagging the dyno section of the ...

Me taking the scenic route to the point this crack is 15 ft. accross 90 ft. deep. Tyrolean baby tyrolean...

Me taking the scenic route to the point this crack...

Looking towards Dayton Tenn. from the Point.

Looking towards Dayton Tenn. from the Point.

If you like aretes........

If you like aretes........

Looking down at the top of point from boulder on top.

Looking down at the top of point from boulder on t...

Gnarly arete.

Gnarly arete.

The way up when exiting from the point, if you don't tyrolean accross the crack from the point.

The way up when exiting from the point, if you don...

Bradley Killough nearing the top and running laps.

Bradley Killough nearing the top and running laps.


Comments on Buzzard Point Add Comment
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By Brad Killough IV
Administrator
From: hartselle, Alabama
Nov 24, 2008

During the summer months, watch out for thunderstorms. They come in fast!!

By Brad Killough IV
Administrator
From: hartselle, Alabama
Jul 20, 2009

This area needs anchor replacement really bad. Alot of the anchors are 20 years or so old...!