|2,327 page views|
This is a face and flake climb with a (formerly) Tennessee-shaped flake near its top. It is a bit runout at the top if you choose to lead it. Rated 5.7 in the 1970s, the loss of a key part of the Tennessee flake since that time has resulted in a change in grade to a current consensus of 5.9 to 5.11, depending upon your reach. To most folks, the crux of this route will seem like pretty solid 5.10, with small crimpy handholds, delicate, balancy footwork, and a long reach to more reassuring holds near the top of the route.
TR, or a trad rack, including nuts and cams.
BETA PHOTO: A closer look at Tennessee ....
The wonderful route!
From: Spfld, Ma
Feb 17, 2007
Tennessee Flake, much easier B4 "the flake" took a ride. It has at least 2 variations. 1st var, from the pedestal climb left on an arching ripple (5.10 or so). There is another variation that works to the right (just a bit) to surmount the pedestal, it's very delicate.
Solar Flare, 5.11b, is also a variation off the main route 1/3 the way up. A left-arching crack leads to a vertical seam. With 2 buckets and 2 cruxes on the climb, you'll be happy to have strong fingers and a cool day, as warm weather makes all the routes at Rose greasy, especially this one.
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 2, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
This climb is very fun, a great climb! I think it would protect very well on gear, maybe having a little runout (gear by your feet when finishing the crux). I highly recommend this climb!
Apr 8, 2013
Climbed this yesterday with a couple people shorter than myself. We didn't believe the "consensus 5.9 to 5.11" before, but afterwards came to the same conclusion. Wingspan of 5'11" or greater, it's 5.9. Wingspan of 5'9" or less, it's at least 5.11.