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 ADVANCED
Rose Ledge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beginner's (aka Easy Corner) T,TR 
Delaney's Arete T 
Double Helix (aka Rikert's Corner) T,TR 
Fun Crack (aka Fist Fight) T,TR 
Greeting Crack T,TR 
Guillotine (aka Double Overhead Cam) T,TR 
Hampshire Corner T,TR 
Indian Summer Arete TR 
Joe Brown Special T 
King Phillip's Face TR 
Lunge Roof (aka Rhino Dyno, or Gunks Roof) T,TR 
Marie Antoinette TR 
Off Width (aka Stetson Stumble) T,TR 
Pendulum (aka Ben's Boot) T,TR 
Rhino Dyno aka The Lunge TR 
Right Twin Crack T 
Rose Rash TR 
Sideline TR 
Solar Flare T,TR 
Summer Stroll T,TR 
Tale of Two Cities (aka Whoops) T,TR 
Tennessee T,TR 
Tiger Walk T 
Widowmaker (aka Leave it to Beaver) TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Tennessee 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,835
Submitted By: Paul Crowder on Mar 12, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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The wonderful route!

Description 

This is a face and flake climb with a (formerly) Tennessee-shaped flake near its top. It is a bit runout at the top if you choose to lead it. Rated 5.7 in the 1970s, the loss of a key part of the Tennessee flake since that time has resulted in a change in grade to a current consensus of 5.9 to 5.11, depending upon your reach. To most folks, the crux of this route will seem like pretty solid 5.10, with small crimpy handholds, delicate, balancy footwork, and a long reach to more reassuring holds near the top of the route.

Protection 

TR, or a trad rack, including nuts and cams.


Photos of Tennessee Slideshow Add Photo
Tennessee on the left, Double Overhead Cam on the right, Bryan MacDonald, foreground.
BETA PHOTO: Tennessee on the left, Double Overhead Cam on the ...
A closer look at Tennessee ....
BETA PHOTO: A closer look at Tennessee ....
A climber on Tennessee. Photo by Kari Post.
A climber on Tennessee. Photo by Kari Post.

Comments on Tennessee Add Comment
Show which comments
By GoBotRocker
From: Spfld, Ma
Feb 17, 2007

Tennessee Flake, much easier B4 "the flake" took a ride. It has at least 2 variations. 1st var, from the pedestal climb left on an arching ripple (5.10 or so). There is another variation that works to the right (just a bit) to surmount the pedestal, it's very delicate.

Solar Flare, 5.11b, is also a variation off the main route 1/3 the way up. A left-arching crack leads to a vertical seam. With 2 buckets and 2 cruxes on the climb, you'll be happy to have strong fingers and a cool day, as warm weather makes all the routes at Rose greasy, especially this one.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 2, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This climb is very fun, a great climb! I think it would protect very well on gear, maybe having a little runout (gear by your feet when finishing the crux). I highly recommend this climb!
By sthomas
Apr 8, 2013

Climbed this yesterday with a couple people shorter than myself. We didn't believe the "consensus 5.9 to 5.11" before, but afterwards came to the same conclusion. Wingspan of 5'11" or greater, it's 5.9. Wingspan of 5'9" or less, it's at least 5.11.
By SP Boston
From: Watertown, MA
May 27, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A nice change of pace after doing Guillotine, this classic is steep and requires some layback and balance moves, as well as some carefully timed high stepping with small hand holds. Others rate it 5.10 and higher, and suggest that the finish is rather height dependent. At 5' 10" and 6' 1" neither of us had a problem with the finish, so the hard finish might enter into the equation somewhere below 5' 10" in height. Another in-your-face route for gym climbers transitioning to finding good holds outdoors.

Some of the rock is so chalky that it is getting a little slick.