By George Perkins From: Los Alamos, NM Aug 8, 2012 rating: 5.12
| This climb's a tougher version of Crimp Chimp, steep and relentless with no distinct crux. Despite a scary 2nd clip off perhaps the smallest hold on the climb (consider stick-clipping this), and a demoralizing finish due to the difficulty of clipping the chains while pumped (consider bringing an extra draw to clip the anchor first, rather than clipping the anchor directly), I've been pretty psyched about this climb lately as I'm trying to improve at steep climbing. This season, I've found it to be not too tweaky or painful; the holds don't seem any smaller than on any other mid/upper-5.12 at the Dungeon. All this should be taken with the caveat that I haven't sent yet. |