Tenderloins 5.12
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | Steve Hong |
| Submitted By: | Josh Ewing on Feb 19, 2008 |
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Description One of the best in the desert. Start with powerful moves around a roof to a pumpy overhanging lieback. Cop a nice rest and charge up the gorgeous off-finger spliter, with pods. Finish in a flare with fingers in the back.
Location Starts just to the left of a large pillar, which keeps the bottom of the route in the shade until the afternoon. Scramble 30 or so feet up to a nice shelf to start the climb.
Protection 3 orange metolious, 3 .5 camalots, 6 1.5 friends, 4 green camalots, 2 1 camalots.
By Timmy! Tormey From: Fakeville, USA Feb 22, 2008
| FA Steve Hong, plaque and book have grade discrepancies but no matter. Great route, thanks for adding it! |
By Josh Ewing From: Bluff, UT Feb 23, 2008
| Thanks Timmy...I added the FA. Yeah, the plaque says 11+. I could see if you're a really strong laybacker, like Hong was, that it would feel about that grade. For my pussy laybacking skills, it felt like 5.12 to me. |
By JamesLucas Apr 13, 2012
| The best route at a mediocre crag- the layback sprint at the beginning gives it some punch |
By slim Apr 14, 2012
| wow, mediocre crag. you must have high standards. |
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