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Tenderloins Wall
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Tenderloins 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Steve Hong
Page Views: 1,252
Submitted By: Josh Ewing on Feb 19, 2008
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Description 

One of the best in the desert. Start with powerful moves around a roof to a pumpy overhanging lieback. Cop a nice rest and charge up the gorgeous off-finger spliter, with pods. Finish in a flare with fingers in the back.


Location 

Starts just to the left of a large pillar, which keeps the bottom of the route in the shade until the afternoon. Scramble 30 or so feet up to a nice shelf to start the climb.


Protection 

3 orange metolious, 3 .5 camalots, 6 1.5 friends, 4 green camalots, 2 1 camalots.



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By Timmy! Tormey
From: Fakeville, USA
Feb 22, 2008

FA Steve Hong, plaque and book have grade discrepancies but no matter. Great route, thanks for adding it!

By Josh Ewing
From: Bluff, UT
Feb 23, 2008

Thanks Timmy...I added the FA. Yeah, the plaque says 11+. I could see if you're a really strong laybacker, like Hong was, that it would feel about that grade. For my pussy laybacking skills, it felt like 5.12 to me.

By JamesLucas
Apr 13, 2012

The best route at a mediocre crag- the layback sprint at the beginning gives it some punch

By slim
Administrator
Apr 14, 2012

wow, mediocre crag. you must have high standards.