Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Tenaya Climbing Shoes
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 4 of 6.  <<First   <Prev   2  3  4  5  6   Next>   Last>>
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
Oct 1, 2013
Me at Linville Gorge!!!
Chris Rice wrote:
I have a pair of Maisai's. I bought them because they fit MY foot nice and snug - no dead or pressure spots - and all day comfort. I wasn't looking for a specialists shoe. They climb like climbing shoes - rubber is the same as everyone else pretty much. I'm not a 5.15 hard man - and for me fit is king. I wanted these for long, all day, multi pitch routes and for that they are great. That said they also worked just fine on a couple sport routes right at my limit on thin edges - which for a comfort fit shoe is pretty solid. My feet don't hurt in them after 7 or 8 pitch routes - they climb just fine - what else do you want in a climbing shoe? A good climber will climb well in a Tenaya and a bad climber will not - pretty simple.


Hey...I have been interested in trying the Maisais, but don't know if they will fit my wide feet...do you have wide feet? I have tried lots of shoes from Anasizi 10.5(heel too deep, too narrow), Murias 43.5(crush my toes, Mythos 42.5(I use and work ok on Vertical, but abit narrow without having too much lenght for slab), Coyotes 10.5(seem to fit my foot better, but No Stiffness!), Reccently ordered the Katana 43(which seem better than other profromance shoes in Toe Box, but not enough comfort for multi-pitch), TC-Pros 43, I supprized that the seem Narrow(Not, comfortable as avertized...might try TC-Pros in 44?) So, as I try to step up my proformance in a bearable cromfort shoe...with my wide feet(at pinky toes)!!! Now, I was able to size down to fit sung in the Nago's, but it is a very flexible shoe! I have been thinking of a pair of Tenaya's, like the Ra or Maisia's(1st choice, they look wider in toe box?)...But Don't know any place to try on or website that will take returns, if they don't fit! Only found them on Tenaya's site...which I would have to Guess the right size or money gone!!! Wonder, if your feet are narrow to wide...or if Maisi's runs Wide, Small? What size did you go with compaired to other shoes? Thanks, for your and all understanding! I hate, having to write/ask/bother others...but kinda stuck with my wide feet!!! Thanks for any/all advise, maybe it will help others with same problem!!!
Jason Blevins
From Burlington, NC
Joined Apr 24, 2012
132 points
Oct 2, 2013
Jason - I bought mine from Trango here in the US. Talked to the guy on the phone and had them send two pair with the ability to return one pair - they were great to work with and zero hassles with the order or the return. Will they fit your wide foot - there's really only one way to know and that's to actually try them on. I have a fairly wide forefoot and narrowish heel and they fit fine. A little bite in the heel the first couple pitches but then fine. Call Trango - talk about sizing for what you want - the guy I talked to knew how they fit compared to my Muiras etc and sent me two sizes to try. I'm real happy with them. I think I'd go with a little bit larger size than a Muira. Chris Rice
Joined Jan 11, 2013
15 points
Oct 8, 2013
Short review:
They perform and comfortable well out of the box. Teneya Ra smells bad, remind me of Evolv shoes. I can't wear them anymore because they smell so bad.
Given the current climbing shoe markets, I rather break in a pair of La Sportiva or Five Ten than to deal with the smell.
divnamite
From New York, NY
Joined Aug 1, 2007
228 points
Oct 8, 2013
Top half of Melifluous
Tenaya shoe demo at Inner Peaks in Charlotte tonight, they have a few of the Tenaya models in stock. Sam Stephens
Joined Jan 20, 2010
768 points
Oct 11, 2013
VaGenius wrote:
Divnamite, The Ras are canvas lined. They exfoliate the hell out of your feer when climbing. The good news is, they wash easily with your jeans or tee shirts, use Woolite gentle detergent and it won't mess with the rubber. The smell is gone after a wash. If you hate the shoes that much, send em to me, I'll pay shipping. I wash mine after every four or five uses. It's the same method I use to get the stank out of evolvs and Anasazis.

How about $75 shipped to you? Size 9.5. 50% off retail. Used for maybe 10 days in the gym and outside.
Your woolite must have special formula because you are the first person who successfully got rid of the stank from Evolv.
divnamite
From New York, NY
Joined Aug 1, 2007
228 points
Administrator
Oct 11, 2013
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
quick review of the tatankas.... i bought a snug pair, they felt absolutely great on my feet. very comfortable despite how snug they were.

then i climbed in them. can't use them. they have absolutely no torsional stiffness. even on medium sized edges, the inside edge of the toe would start bending upward. after 1 pitch, when i took them off the toes were absolutely deformed like a pair of curled toe wooden dutch boy shoes. it was crazy. my wife totally laughed when she saw them. i literally had to bend the toes back down to their original position.

also, while this was happening, the outer edge of the shoe started rotating around my foot and pulled my pinky toe underneath my ring toe. this was somewhat painful, and obviously didn't bolster my confidence. when smearing they were constantly creeping off the holds. they literally felt like i was trying to stand on a bowling ball covered in vasaline.

another observation (that somebody above mentioned) is that the shoe is too symetric laterally. this brings the point of the shoe too much to the center, and when you place your toes on a hold, it feels like the ball of your foot is getting in the way. it is really weird, and really compromises the edging power. maybe this would be helpful to people who have really long middle toes(???).

after really analyzing them, here is my assessment. i think these things died the "death by committee" during design. its like one person wanted them to be an anasazi lace up. one person wanted them to be a miura. the last person wanted them to be a mythos. as such, they don't do anything very well. honestly, they climb like a pair of floppy beginner shoes. an expensive pair of floppy beginner shoes. climbing magazine recently gave these things the 2 thumbs up, but i couldn't disagree more.

its kind of like the designers don't understand how a lineup of shoes should operate. slippers should be the softest. there should be a few options for velcro ranging from soft to fairly stiff and varying in agressiveness. there should be maybe 2 pairs of laceups - a really agressive pair and a super stiff pair. a laceup should be that last resort, where you need to get midieval and lay the hurt to the footholds.
slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,044 points
Oct 11, 2013
I thought I was the only one who thinks Tatanka is too soft.

For those who love their Tenaya, I got both of them for sale, 9.5. Used for about 10 days each in the gym and on the rock. How about 50% off retail?
divnamite
From New York, NY
Joined Aug 1, 2007
228 points
Nov 5, 2013
I have a pair of Tenaya's and really like them. They are not as comfortable as Mythos, but are stiffer and they edge much better. I recently had my Mythos resoled with the Onyx rubber and feel that the Tenaya's stick much better. I would buy another pair of them for sure. Scott Cooper
Joined Jul 2, 2013
2 points
Nov 11, 2013
I also have the Masais, they are a size 14 which may be a half size too big but they still climb really well.

This weekend there was a tenaya demo at the buttermilks and I got to try the Ra and Oasi, the 13.5 Ra fit perfectly (my true street size!) and the 11.5 Oasi fit, so 2 full sizes smaller!!! I don't know why they can't size the shoes more consistently, but I can say the Oasi is a very comfortable shoe still and climbs AMAZINGLY.

Tenaya needs to do better advertising, these shoes are the most comfortable shoes that can still climb well. If I didn't have an almost new pair of solutions I would but the Oasi today.
GhaMby
From Heaven
Joined Oct 2, 2006
427 points
Dec 6, 2013
At the BRC
Any suggestions for a Tenaya style that might replace the Katanas I currently use in the gym? They are a couple of resoles beyond their lifespan already. I was thinking maybe Intis? Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Joined Nov 29, 2007
204 points
Administrator
Dec 6, 2013
Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.
Mark E Dixon wrote:
Any suggestions for a Tenaya style that might replace the Katanas I currently use in the gym? They are a couple of resoles beyond their lifespan already. I was thinking maybe Intis?


I've replaced my 10+ pairs of Katanas with Inti's. They are my favorite thin-edging shoe. Performance-wise they're very similar to Katanas, but with less deadspace around the toes (that depends on foot shape to some extent though). Compared to other Tenayas, I think they are a bit narrower in the toebox than the Ra, which makes them tighter/more precise/less long-term-comfy.

I prefer Ra's for the gym, because they are a bit looser on my foot. They edge plenty well for the gym, plus you can still curl your toes around incut holds and wear them for an hour without your toes screaming. FWIW, Ramon Julian won a world cup in Ra's, so they definitely perform well on plastic.

If you have a relatively narrow foot (or you like a tighter gym fit) I would guess Inti's would be good in the gym, but they aren't downturned at all so they aren't really meant for toeing in on things (which I do a lot of in the gym). I've never used mine in the gym, so I'm speculating.

I think the Oasi's are the best gym performer, but its a top-end shoe, which I normally wouldn't "waste" on gym climbing. However, if I were trying to do really hard gym bouldering (like a comp or something), the Oasi would be my shoe.

Hope this helps!
Monomaniac
From Morrison, CO
Joined Oct 26, 2006
17,131 points
Dec 6, 2013
I had a similar question. My best shoe is the Katana Lace and my gym shoe is the Vapor V tho I do put on the KL when I lead at my limit. The other night a climber was dancing up pretty hard stuff in his Oasi. We chatted after the fact and he said he ditched his Solutions for the Oasi in short order for the comfort of the latter, with very little or no loss in performance.
I too have been eyeing the Inti as a comfy gym shoe but now that I know they have no downturn, I am starting to think they are not the right shoe for the gym this winter. Oasi is definitely pricey as a gym shoe (I paid $81 for the VV, for instance) ... I might have to switch over to the Ra instead.
S. Neoh
Joined Oct 4, 2009
481 points
Dec 6, 2013
At the BRC
Thanks for the suggestions!

My feet are pretty wide, so the Ra may be my best bet. I'll try on all the slippers and see what fits best. I assume no stretch?

I wore Testarrosa's for years but they started to hurt my feet and I had to switch to something less 'challenging.'

I kind of hope I don't like the $165 Oasi. Anyone know if Bentgate has any discounts at present? Neptunes has a 25% off deal going for a few days, which would bring down the cost of new Katanas nicely.
Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Joined Nov 29, 2007
204 points
Administrator
Dec 6, 2013
Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.
Mark E Dixon wrote:
I assume no stretch?


Very little stretch. They'll conform to your toe knuckles, but they won't get any longer/wider.
Monomaniac
From Morrison, CO
Joined Oct 26, 2006
17,131 points
Administrator
Dec 7, 2013
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
Mark E Dixon wrote:
Thanks for the suggestions! My feet are pretty wide, so the Ra may be my best bet. I'll try on all the slippers and see what fits best. I assume no stretch? I wore Testarrosa's for years but they started to hurt my feet and I had to switch to something less 'challenging.' I kind of hope I don't like the $165 Oasi. Anyone know if Bentgate has any discounts at present? Neptunes has a 25% off deal going for a few days, which would bring down the cost of new Katanas nicely.


i have been climbing in the ra's for the last few months, and i would call them a narrow shoe. i have a really skinny foot, and they are pretty narrow on me (to the point that sometimes they try to pull my pinky toe under my ring toe).

mono - do you have narrow feet? for some reason i always imagined you having beefy feet (?).

i have been meaning to post a review of the ra's, but i have been pretty busy. a quick summary would be;
1) absolutely great on pockets (probably the best shoe i have ever worn for pockets).
2) ok at edging, but not great. the toe area is too symmetric and your big toes aren't knuckled up, so it is hard to generate the force required for really nasty edging. my galileos are still, by a long margin (IMHO) the best edging shoe i have worn. for the most part though, i have been able to get by with the ra's.
3) mostly really compfortable, except when they try to pull my pinky toe under my ring toe.
4) i agree with mono that the inti's are better for edging, which is pretty weird when you compare the lateral bending stiffness of the 2 shoes about the long axis of the foot - the ra is much stiffer, and the inti is way flexible. pretty crazy.
slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,044 points
Administrator
Dec 7, 2013
El Chorro
I pretty much agree with Slim. The Tenaya is a pretty narrow shoe. Narrower than any Five Ten I've ever worn. I have a skinny foot, but not necessarily a narrow one. They fit me, but I sized them down so much that I can really only boulder in them. If I go on any sport climbing trips next year I might buy some a half size larger, because they are probably the best performing shoe I've owned for bouldering/sport.

I also agree with Slim that the Galileo is the best edging shoe ever. I have two pair in two different sizes for everything from vertical wall climbing to all day trad.

I do think the Ras edge really well though. But they do really shine in on pocketed limestone. For a slightly downturned shoe, they are also extremely comfortable. If I had a full size bigger I could probably climb all day trad in them without sacrificing too much performance.
Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points
Administrator
Dec 7, 2013
Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.
slim wrote:
mono - do you have narrow feet?


I think I have stubby and wide feet. BITD I fit really well in Fiveten Anasazis (velcro and lace), and I felt like Katanas were a bit narrow (but I could stretch them to the right width).

I wonder if shoe width is "linear" across the size range. It seems to me like often the big sizes are relatively narrow and vice versa.
Monomaniac
From Morrison, CO
Joined Oct 26, 2006
17,131 points
Dec 19, 2013
Really want to try a pair of Oasi - anyone comment on fit? I hear they run larger.

I currently climb in Scarpa Instinct VS size 44 - but they are too small. The 45 fits perfect but digs into my fibula so no go.
John Tissavary
From NY, NY
Joined Mar 20, 2013
22 points
Jan 21, 2014
John Tissavary wrote:
Really want to try a pair of Oasi - anyone comment on fit? I hear they run larger. I currently climb in Scarpa Instinct VS size 44 - but they are too small. The 45 fits perfect but digs into my fibula so no go.



I wear a size 13.5 in the Masai and Ra, but a 11.5 in the Oasi fit perfectly. I guess that means 2 sizes down from street, at least for me, but I like my shoes to be comfy.

My friend wears an 11.5 street and had to go down to a 10.5 in the Masai to feel right for him, but he has super narrow feet and I think he is okay with a little toe pain compared to me.

Mark/Mono: I'm looking at getting the Inti or Ra for climbing on vert granite sport (Lower Rock Creek) and in the Owen's river Gorge, what would you prefer??? I'm just assuming you've climbed here since you've been EVERYWHERE it seems.
GhaMby
From Heaven
Joined Oct 2, 2006
427 points
Jan 24, 2014
At the BRC
Mark E Dixon wrote:
Any suggestions for a Tenaya style that might replace the Katanas I currently use in the gym? They are a couple of resoles beyond their lifespan already. I was thinking maybe Intis?


An update-

I tried on Ras and Intis. The Ras fit my wideish feet much better.
I wear a size 38.5 Katana, and ended up with a 40.5 Ra.
The Ra seems fairly similar to the Katana with respect to asymmetry and downturn, but are much stiffer. They climb as well, but I can't curl my toes over footholds nearly as easily.
They are much more comfortable than my Katanas, although not an all day shoe for me. But at least my feet don't hurt after a gym session.
Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Joined Nov 29, 2007
204 points
Administrator
Jan 24, 2014
Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.
DoesNotCare wrote:
Mark/Mono: I'm looking at getting the Inti or Ra for climbing on vert granite sport (Lower Rock Creek) and in the Owen's river Gorge, what would you prefer??? I'm just assuming you've climbed here since you've been EVERYWHERE it seems.


I think foot shape is probably the determining factor, but for me, the Inti is better for edging. The Init toe box is lower-volume and less 'pointy' than the Ra. If you like more of a square toe box, go with the Inti. My feet are more stubby than pointy, my big toe doesn't stick out from the others, so the Inti fits me best. I think they kick ass on thin edges.
Monomaniac
From Morrison, CO
Joined Oct 26, 2006
17,131 points
Jan 26, 2014
Monomaniac wrote:
I think they kick ass on thin edges.

In your opinion, would Masai be the right shoe as a replacement for Miura lace-ups?
Marek Sapkovski
Joined Jun 8, 2013
66 points
Jan 26, 2014
portrait
I have a wide boxy forefoot and find the Ra's to fit wonderfully, providing good sensitivity..multi-pitch comfort and edge quite nicely...very similar to the anasazis. My new " go to" shoe Chris Graham
From Bartlett, NH
Joined Jun 25, 2008
453 points
Mar 4, 2014
Espresso @ New Jack City
Anyone have recommendations for good fits for my feet in the Solution/Instinct VS/Oasi style?

I have pretty low volume feet but street size 12, so I can't just get a woman's shoe since they don't make them that big. Medium width forefoot, high arch, but skinny heel and pretty asymmetrical toes, so I need a decent amount of camber even in all-day shoes (e.g. Anasazis and Pontas are painful on me because they push my big toe toward the other toes).

My current sport/bouldering shoes are Geshidos and Shamans; while the width of the forefoot and camber is perfect in those, I need to crank them down allll the way to get the air out, and I feel that the heels fit just a bit to square/baggy. Tenuous heel hooks are made even more so.
T.J. Esposito
From San Diego, CA
Joined May 3, 2011
156 points
Mar 4, 2014
My suggestion is to check out the Tenaya Inti, which is made for narrow feet. Probably street or half down from street size. GhaMby
From Heaven
Joined Oct 2, 2006
427 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 4 of 6.  <<First   <Prev   2  3  4  5  6   Next>   Last>>
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!