Ten Years After 5.10+
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| Type: | Trad, 5 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | Bob Kerry, Charlie Rollins 1988 |
| Season: | sept.-may |
| Submitted By: | Charles Vernon on Oct 3, 2010 |
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BETA PHOTO: Charles Vernon scoping out his options on the firs...
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Description This is a really fun route with three pitches of absorbing face climbing, topped off by a nice crack (particularly by Southern Arizona standards!) on the fourth pitch. The climbing is technical and hard to read; there is a lot of mini-route-finding and micro-traversing, and some mild spice. Pitch 2 in particular is a gem. Kerry's description and topo are both very good, so I see no need to give a blow-by-blow account here.
[Edit, after a second trip up]: I would only say that on pitch one, after the crux, the climbing seems pretty contrived, as you can just go up the moderate gear-protected corner (shown on the topo) to the belay. The climbing out right may be better but felt almost annoyingly forced.
Location The route is located on the left side of Golder Dome, and starts just right of the obvious, left-trending vegetated corner system ("Jungle Cruiser"). Look for the first bolt up and right about 20 feet. A hard 5.10 move past this bolt leads to a ledge--don't go up the corner, but instead move right to find the next bolt.
To descend, we did not do the last 4th class pitch, but instead rappelled from the "pointed flake" that Kerry mentions, which is even with the tree belay at the top of pitch four, but about 30 feet left (if you want to do this option, then there's no need to go to the tree on P4). Here was the only discrepancy that we found in Backcountry Rock Climbing: We rappelled with one rope to a set of bolts not noted in that guide, then with two ropes to the two-bolt anchor atop pitch 2, then with two ropes to the ground.
Protection A full set of nuts (include rps), and a single set of cams from tiny to a #3.5 friend will provide sufficient, though not abundant protection. A couple extra hand-sized cams would certainly get used on the last pitch (be sure to save everything from #1.5 friend up for the hand crack on that pitch). Nothing larger than a #2 friend is needed on the first two pitches. Bring about 3 draws--the two 10+ cruxes are both well-protected by bolts.
BETA PHOTO: Charles Vernon about to climb the mini dihedral on...
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BETA PHOTO: Charles pulling through the roof handcrack (wait a...
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| Comments on Ten Years After |
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By Clay Mansfield
Mar 3, 2013
| This climb is great. We were prepared to do some choss-bungling, but were pleasantly surprised to find some stellar climbing on mostly bullet rock. The rock at Golder Dome reminded us of the rock at the Reef, very cool. If you have the time, the scramble to the summit is worth it. |
By Charles Vernon
From: Florence, AZ
Mar 4, 2013
| Clay, if I say it's good, it's good. With that said, you should have no qualms about jumping on Humungous Woosey :) |
By Clay Mansfield
Mar 4, 2013
| Andy and I were gazing longingly at some of those corners on Klingons. Golder Dome is a pretty cool spot all by it's lonesome. |
By Andy Bennett
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 12, 2013
| Bringing some extra webbing and a knife is a good idea out here in the Pusch. We cleaned up all of the old tat on Ten Years, but what we left will be outdated by the time the summer sun is done with it. This climb sports surprisingly solid rock that climbs quite well, it's definitely one of the better backcountry lines that I've been on in the local area. |
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