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The Steep
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ashes S 
Blue Note S 
Bunkweed S 
Chossy Offwidth S 
Delt Melt S 
Dr. Evil S 
Fat Bastard S 
Glenn's Route S 
Goldmember S 
Green Monster/George of the Jungle Var. S 
Johnny Rotten S 
Mini-me S 
Not known at this time S 
Slappin the Johnson S 
Spiderman S 
Stepping Into Blue Sky S 
Stone Free S 
Ten Years After S 
Tony's Route AKA Cres-sent S 
Two Birds Too Stoned S 
Unknown S 

Ten Years After 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: JBaker, JShiefman, Dylan Cooper, Oct 2007
Page Views: 1,412
Submitted By: jbak on Oct 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Mike stops about two feet off the ground after his...

Description 

Steep, powerful, sustained...but good rests where ya need 'em. Overhangs 20+ feet.

21st century start with an old-school finish. The best sequence is not necessarily easy to find. Perhaps a touch of sandbag at 12a, I'm not sure.

An old Glenn Todd project that he let sit idle for 10 years. Hence the name. Well... it's also a tribute to Alvin Lee. All bolts are stainless.


Location 

The right side of the SW face is the steepest part of the crag. The right-most route is Dr. Evil. Ten Years After starts about 10 feet left of Dr. Evil. TYA has several fixed draws.


Protection 

Bolts, chain anchors and fixed draws. You need 5 draws to get up...1 at the start, 2 up high, 2 for anchors.



Photos of Ten Years After Slideshow Add Photo
Mike Gura doing the powerful start of the route.
Mike Gura doing the powerful start of the route.
Mike trying to clip and me with a loop of slack so he can clip.  That was almost too much as you will see in the next photo.  I should have held him a little closer than I did.
Mike trying to clip and me with a loop of slack so...
EDIT: Ten Years After (June 2013)
EDIT: Ten Years After (June 2013)
Comments on Ten Years After Add Comment
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By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 30, 2008
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Great start and a fun climb with a practically no hands rest in the middle and a not so fun finish above the cool second crux. Would give it three stars if it didn't have the rest or the last ten feet to the chains. Glad to have the rest on the redpoint run today.

By jbak
Jul 31, 2008

Eric, I actually like the finish. Probably because it reminds me just a bit of Vedauwoo where I started climbing. So it's a (slightly weak) 3 stars for me.

By iancevans
Sep 21, 2009
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Well, I apparently missed a nearly hands-free rest, so the redpoint felt much harder than Cres-Sent (didn't really get pumped on Cres-Sent, was pumped out of my mind through the crux on this one). Guess that's what happens when you try to get these things done quickly and without much beta refinement.

Very fun, but Cres-Sent is better. Next weekend I'll try my hand at Delt Melt.

By Joe Kreidel
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 2, 2009

A little hold breakage occurred last week on this route. The first good right hand hold after the upper crux (the right most hold on the ledge above the hole, if that makes more sense) broke a little and is not as big any more - maybe a full pad crimp. Still usable, and shouldn't effect the grade, but thought some people might like to know.

Fun route, and except for the good rest, it's all business.

By jbak
Dec 21, 2009

Ian...you didn't get pumped on Cressent !!?? Loan me your forearms please !

By JesseJ
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 5, 2011
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

So much loose gravel on this one... Would be a lot of fun if the rock didn't disintegrate.

By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 1, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I personally enjoyed the unique finish. After giving a rectal exam to the crack I clipped off an arm bar... on a sport route!

The glue and gravel slightly detract from otherwise fantastic movement. Thanks for bringing this one to completion.