Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Brownstone Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Armatron 
Arms Reduction 
Birthday Cake 
Black Dagger 
Cat Scratch Fever 
High Anxiety 
Hourglass Diversion 
Hueco Thanks 
J + J Swerve 
Mayday Malefactor 
Nightcrawler, The 
Peanut Brittle 
Pro Choice 
Pro Life 
Requiem for a Tadpole 
Sand Castle 
Sweet Thin 
Ten Minute Shift 
Three Choclateers 
Time's Up 

Ten Minute Shift 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 350', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Spring, Fall, Winter
Page Views: 374
Submitted By: Andy Hansen on Apr 1, 2012
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Pitch one. A general overview of the entire 80 foo...

Description 

Ten Minute Shift is a good line up a seemingly improbable line. The first two pitches are great and sustained at their respective grades. There is some loose rock along the way lower on the route. Be careful of what you're pulling down (or out) on. The rock at the 2nd pitch roof is questionable. All bolts on the route are bomber but you might want to bring extra cord or webbing to leave behind on the anchors. The current state of the current webbing is pretty bleak.

Pitch 1: 5.10b, 80 ft. Begin on a few large blocks at the base of the route. Make some 5.8 moves up to the first bolt placing a piece of pro if you will. From here follow the bolts (7) to an anchor on a ledge. Very good sequences, movement and holds. Sustained and fun at the grade. Bolted anchor.

Pitch 2: 5.11b, 80 ft. Looking up at this pitch it looks improbable but the sequences reveal themselves quite nicely. From the belay ledge, move left and follow good rails back right. Follow the bolts (10) up to the roof. Traverse to the left side of the roof. Pull the roof using small holds and glassy feet. This whole flake that you're pulling on is hollow. Beware. A place of gear can be placed after clipping the last bolt before the anchor. Bolted anchor.

Pitch 3: 5.10a, 50 ft. Follow the flare straight up off the belay. Small cams work well here. Trend left around a roof to another bolted anchor.

Pitch 4: 5.9, 70 ft. Move up the varnished corner to another comfortable bolted stance. Bolted anchor.

Pitch 5: 5.8, 70 ft. Follow the corner systems to a large ledge with another bolted belay. This is also the ledge where Hueco Thanks ends.

Descent: Rappel the route with one 60m rope. Five rappels total.


Location 

Middle of the Brownstone Wall. Look for the triangular roof of P2 as a landmark.


Protection 

Single Rack to 3"
C3's or TCU's helpful on P3



Photos of Ten Minute Shift Slideshow Add Photo
Ten Minute Shift begins at the tan patch of stone 80 feet below a ledge with a tree on it. You'll see bolts.
BETA PHOTO: Ten Minute Shift begins at the tan patch of stone ...
Pitch Two. Technical, balancing moves up to the roof. Burl dog through the roof to the anchors.
Pitch Two. Technical, balancing moves up to the ro...
At the good "rest" on the awesomely technical pitch two.
At the good "rest" on the awesomely technical pitc...
Comments on Ten Minute Shift Add Comment
Show which comments
By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Apr 7, 2013

Bring cord for the descent. First ascentionists didn't shell out for chain on the raps, so with the amount of sun this wall gets, you will be guaranteed bleached slings at every station.