Ten Minute Shift  5.11b

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 350 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.11b [details] FA:  Unknown Season:  Spring, Fall, Winter Submitted By:  Andy Hansen on Apr 1, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Ten Minute Shift begins at the tan patch of stone ...

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Description 

Ten Minute Shift is a good line up a seemingly improbable line. The first two pitches are great and sustained at their respective grades. There is some loose rock along the way lower on the route. Be careful of what you're pulling down (or out) on. The rock at the 2nd pitch roof is questionable. All bolts on the route are bomber but you might want to bring extra cord or webbing to leave behind on the anchors. The current state of the current webbing is pretty bleak.

Pitch 1: 5.10b, 80 ft. Begin on a few large blocks at the base of the route. Make some 5.8 moves up to the first bolt placing a piece of pro if you will. From here follow the bolts (7) to an anchor on a ledge. Very good sequences, movement and holds. Sustained and fun at the grade. Bolted anchor.

Pitch 2: 5.11b, 80 ft. Looking up at this pitch it looks improbable but the sequences reveal themselves quite nicely. From the belay ledge, move left and follow good rails back right. Follow the bolts (10) up to the roof. Traverse to the left side of the roof. Pull the roof using small holds and glassy feet. This whole flake that you're pulling on is hollow. Beware. A place of gear can be placed after clipping the last bolt before the anchor. Bolted anchor.

Pitch 3: 5.10a, 50 ft. Follow the flare straight up off the belay. Small cams work well here. Trend left around a roof to another bolted anchor.

Pitch 4: 5.9, 70 ft. Move up the varnished corner to another comfortable bolted stance. Bolted anchor.

Pitch 5: 5.8, 70 ft. Follow the corner systems to a large ledge with another bolted belay. This is also the ledge where Hueco Thanks ends.

Descent: Rappel the route with one 60m rope. Five rappels total.

Location 

Middle of the Brownstone Wall. Look for the triangular roof of P2 as a landmark.

Protection 

Single Rack to 3"
C3's or TCU's helpful on P3

Photos of Ten Minute Shift Slideshow

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Pitch Two. Technical, balancing moves up to the ro...	Pitch one. A general overview of the entire 80 foo...	At the good "rest" on the awesomely technical pitc...