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 ADVANCED
Ten-Minute Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.10 Traverse T 
Babel T,TR 
Eunuch in a Whorehouse T,TR 
Gardens of Babylon T,TR 
Scorpio T 
Ten Minute Crack T,TR 

Ten Minute Crack 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,491
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Feb 26, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Andrew shows off 10 Minute Crack like Vanna White.

Description 

Located right in the middle of the 10 Minute Cliff is the cliff's namesake Ten Minute Crack. Apparently it was so named because of the time it took to hammer pitons into the narrow crack. Now these piton scars are the 'quality' finger holds you'll be using as you struggle you way up it. While its a short climb, its still excellent and teaches the 5.12 crack novice (me) a thing or two about crack climbing.


Protection 

Pro to 2" but mostly very small. Up top there are two bolts at the edge of the cliff and a third, older bolt further back.



Photos of Ten Minute Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Ten Minute Cliff. Click photo for high-res version.  <br /> <br />(1) Gardens of Babylon (5.9), <br />(2) Babel (5.10),  <br />(3) Ten Minute Crack (5.12),  <br />(4) Eunuch in a Whorehouse (5.12+),  <br />(5) Scorpio (5.8),  <br /> <br />Mastophilia (5.10 TR) is not shown. Climbs 1-4 have bolted anchors. A 5.10/V0 traverse can be made on knobs between Babel and Ten Minute Crack.
BETA PHOTO: Ten Minute Cliff. Click photo for high-res version...
Comments on Ten Minute Crack Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Oct 22, 2005

Was rated 5.10 d in the mid 70's. I guess it's gotten harder.

By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Mar 24, 2006
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

It hasn't gotten harder, people just got sick of all the ego maniacs sandbagging everything and gave it a more true rating.

On another note, I don't know what you'd need a 2" piece for. A 2" piece will be over cammed in the short hands section up high. Something just smaller...say, 1.5" to 1.75" fits perfectly.

Here's what I used (in order) Blue Alien, Green Alien, Blue Metolius (just below mono digit bottle neck up high), #7 HB offset just above that, and a #1 BD C4 in the short hands section previously mentioned. Then I ran it out to the top. Short, but long enough to make me pucker.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Mar 16, 2008

Haven't led this, but it is a great TR that's easy to set up. Also a good practice clean aid crack.

The ground anchor for solo aiding isn't the greatest though, I think I used a 4 and 5 camalot.

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Sep 28, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I would agree with Salamanizer about gear on this one. I haven't climbed this in a long time, but the notes that I wrote in my book say (in order): blue alien, yellow WC zero, #5,6,7,8 HB offsets. Thought 12a was fair.

By Michaeld916
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 24, 2012

Anyone have pics of this? The only crack I can think of on here didn't seem very 5.12.

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Jan 24, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

There are some pics here:

www.summitpost.org/ten-minute-crack/160596

By Michaeld916
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 30, 2012

Thanks John, hopped on it yesterday, fun climb.