Ten Minute Crack 5.12
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | Brian Quiter on Feb 26, 2005 |
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BETA PHOTO: Andrew shows off 10 Minute Crack like Vanna White.
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Description Located right in the middle of the 10 Minute Cliff is the cliff's namesake Ten Minute Crack. Apparently it was so named because of the time it took to hammer pitons into the narrow crack. Now these piton scars are the 'quality' finger holds you'll be using as you struggle you way up it. While its a short climb, its still excellent and teaches the 5.12 crack novice (me) a thing or two about crack climbing.
Protection Pro to 2" but mostly very small. Up top there are two bolts at the edge of the cliff and a third, older bolt further back.
| Comments on Ten Minute Crack |
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By Anonymous Coward
Oct 22, 2005
| Was rated 5.10 d in the mid 70's. I guess it's gotten harder. |
By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Mar 24, 2006
rating: 5.11d
| It hasn't gotten harder, people just got sick of all the ego maniacs sandbagging everything and gave it a more true rating.
On another note, I don't know what you'd need a 2" piece for. A 2" piece will be over cammed in the short hands section up high. Something just smaller...say, 1.5" to 1.75" fits perfectly.
Here's what I used (in order) Blue Alien, Green Alien, Blue Metolius (just below mono digit bottle neck up high), #7 HB offset just above that, and a #1 BD C4 in the short hands section previously mentioned. Then I ran it out to the top. Short, but long enough to make me pucker. |
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Mar 16, 2008
| Haven't led this, but it is a great TR that's easy to set up. Also a good practice clean aid crack.
The ground anchor for solo aiding isn't the greatest though, I think I used a 4 and 5 camalot. |
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Sep 28, 2010
rating: 5.12a
| I would agree with Salamanizer about gear on this one. I haven't climbed this in a long time, but the notes that I wrote in my book say (in order): blue alien, yellow WC zero, #5,6,7,8 HB offsets. Thought 12a was fair. |
By Michaeld916
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 24, 2012
| Anyone have pics of this? The only crack I can think of on here didn't seem very 5.12. |
By Michaeld916
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 30, 2012
| Thanks John, hopped on it yesterday, fun climb. |
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