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Chiefshead Northeast Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cowboys and Indians T 
Geronimo T 
Ten Little Indians T 
Thurmond/Levine T 
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Ten Little Indians 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1500'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: Davis and Winkelman
Page Views: 788
Submitted By: Guy H. on Aug 18, 2012

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The route.... Photo credit: Jason Seaver.

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Description 

Ten Little Indians is great long outing on a remote wall. At 11 pitches long, it is more committing than the Diamond considering you would lose most of your rack if you bailed high on the route. Most of the climbing is in the 5.8 to easy 5.10 range, with only a few moderate runouts. The rock is not the same quality as Birds of Fire, but there are some great sections of climbing between your standard alpine crack and face climbing.

P1: (5.9-, 130 feet) From the left side of the rock tongue angle left through thin cracks to the base of the wide crack (8-12 inches). Climb this to a good ledge.

P2: (5.10R or 5.9-, 110 feet) The original P2 heads up the rightmost thin, RF dihedral. The pin is missing, so the first good gear is 20-25 feet up. A more sane option angles left to the ledge above.

P3: (5.10a, 100 feet) From the ledge shared with Cowboys and Indians, traverse straight left past a bolt and belay at the base of a RF dihedral. You can link P2/3 with a 70m if you avoid the original RF dihedral.

P4: (5.8+, 110 feet) Head up the obvious, RF corner and traverse left 50ft on a ledge to a right-facing flake system.

P5: (5.9R, 140 feet) This is probably the best on the route. Head up a cool system of flakes for about 90 feet and look for a passage to the left. There is a final crack system that leads to a two bolt anchor. The path we took to avoid a water streak did have a 20 foot runout on 5.9.

P6: (5.10b PG13, 150 feet) Head straight left past two bolts on thin and thought provoking face climbing. At the end of the traverse head straight up combining thin crack features. Belay on a ledge system up and left.

P7: (5.8R, 210 feet) Climb the RF dihedral and angle hard left to the exit crux pitch on Long ledge. There is some positive 5.5 climbing with 30-40 foot runouts.

P8: (5.11a, 50 feet) Climb the shallow, RF corner past an old pin. Traverse a horizontal crack system to the left and make crux moves up at the next pin, which can be backed up with good gear. The crux consists of huge moves between positive holds.

P9: (5.9, 120 feet) Traverse straight right on an angling crack system. As you near the end of a semi-detached flake, crank up to a belay stance.

P10: (5.9, 180 feet) There is a short, 5.9, RF dihedral to a long section of 5.6 alpine rock.

P11: (5.?, 180 feet) Find the easiest path to the top.

The best descent takes the ridge line to a gully on climber's left.

Location 

Ten Little Indians is best accessed by a traverse in from the right on a rock shelf and the base. Aim for the right side and traverse loose ledges to the base of the wide crack first pitch on the left.

Protection 

Single rack to #4 Friend, doubles to #1 or #2 Camalot, triples in the green to yellow Alien size, and one set of RPs and nuts.


Photos of Ten Little Indians Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The beautiful ridge traverse to the descent!
The beautiful ridge traverse to the descent!
Rock Climbing Photo: Beginning of the runout on the beautiful P5 of Ten...
Beginning of the runout on the beautiful P5 of Ten...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bert following the crux pitch on Ten little Indian...
Bert following the crux pitch on Ten little Indian...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bert celebrating his 60th B-day after 40 years of ...
Bert celebrating his 60th B-day after 40 years of ...

Comments on Ten Little Indians Add Comment
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By SteveZ
From: Denver, CO
Jul 16, 2016

Fun route. The rock quality is less than awesome on a few of the pitches but overall pretty good. I think it's worth saying that although listed as 1500 ft, there is probably another 200-300' of easy 4th/5th class scrambling to get to the first pitch/summit from the end of the last pitch.

Also notably the 5.easy scrambling at the top after the last pitch did have one (brief) maybe 20' section of not easy climbing. It felt about 10+ to my partner and me and was quite insecure and poorly protected. It felt like the mental crux of the route to us and came as quite a surprise when we were expecting to just simul-climb to the summit. I'm pretty sure we were on route as you're following an easy rib/gully that would be hard to stray from. Maybe something fell off? Everything else felt as described.

The decent (left of the face when looking up at the wall) was nasty, though pretty safe. We did not need axes and only touched the snow for about 10'. It was a dry mid-July.

All in all, I agree with the poster that this route makes for a long day and is significantly more committing than The Diamond (or Spearhead).

The belay spot at the end of pitch 9 was incredible. Probably the most exposed position I've ever found myself at on a route.

You probably won't have to wait in line for this one. We found some old bail gear in a few places that looked like it had been there for quite a while.
By Bingman
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 18, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

A full value adventure up a monster, secluded face with varied climbing and incredible exposure. Not to be missed.

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