Ten Karat Gold 5.10a R
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | John Long, Richard Harrison & Rick Accomazzo, June 1973 |
| Season: | Spring - Fall |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Jan 20, 2006 |
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Starting the traverse on pitch one. Photo: Robs M...
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Description Ten Karat Gold is perhaps the finest route on the Weeping Wall and comes highly recommended, but be aware it's fairly runout with some long falls possible (especially on the 2nd pitch).
This is the right-most line on the slab proper and starts near a large oak tree below a ledge. Easy scrambling (5.0) up a right-slanting ramp leads to a large belay ledge and the start of the climb.
P1) Climb past two bolts, make a traverse right and then up to a third bolt (5.9); higher two more bolts lead to a 2 bolt anchor. P2) The crux comes almost directly off the belay as you traverse right to a small stance and the 1st of two bolts on this runout pitch. Clip the bolt and then work your way upwards, making some 5.9 moves way out from your last bolt. Clip the second bolt and your home free - a bit of slab paddling gains the top. Descend via Bye Gully.
Protection All bolted, gear to 3" for last belay
Starting anchor of Ten Karat Gold. A beautiful an...
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| Comments on Ten Karat Gold |
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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jan 20, 2006
rating: 5.10a R
| Ah, yes... fond memories 15 years ago of cutting my runout teeth on the traverse (and then up!) to the first bolt on the second pitch. Good, exciting times for a relatively green climber. The classic on the wall in my opinion. |
By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Feb 18, 2008
rating: 5.10a
| Rap bolted! Huh.Totally out of carrotier of this FA crew.Hard to believe,First I've herd of it.One of the best,if not the best route on this wall. |
By Mike Graham
Mar 19, 2008
| Saw the comment on the opening post about a Rap bolted second pitch and I must say it’s so not true. The slab may have been top roped from Sampson to see if it was possible but thats it.
you could be mistaken for the variation pitch which goes straight up from the belay at the top of the first pitch. There are more bolts on that pitch making it more popular maybe because you can’t even see the first bolt on TKG’s proper second pitch.
Thought I would clear that up.
Mike
visit this link to read a recent TR on this route.
Ten Karat TR |
By Adam Kimmerly
May 29, 2009
| Having forgotten my guidebook in the car, I ended up doing the White Line Fever finish not realizing the route went right. The moves to the first bolt on that pitch seemed significantly harder than those on the pitches below - maybe I should have moved left instead of dime-edging up the blank orange slab to the first bolt? That second pitch is fantastic, especially with the sun in your eyes, preventing any possibility of seeing the bolt you're climbing to from the bolt you just clipped! |
By Cory
From: Boise, ID
May 29, 2010
rating: 5.10a R
| What an awesome line! 2nd pitch seemed much more serious than the first. After traversing way over from the anchor you finally get a glimps of the first bolt, still way above you. definitely satisfied my craving for spice! |
By UpRope
Dec 16, 2010
| The cruxy traverse move at the start of P2 seems much easier if one is willing to stem wide. An excellent route,relatively sustained and very interesting the entire length. |
By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 1, 2012
| Anyone with rack recommendations for this? |
By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 1, 2012
| Quickdraws should be all you need for the route itself but take some gear (1.5" to 3") for the anchor on the last pitch. |
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