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Ten-Digit Dialing 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, October 8, 1998.
Page Views: 10,728
Submitted By: Quinn Stevens on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (146)
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Jeff going for the good horn before the crux.

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

If you like thin face climbing that utilizes balance and sequence, then this route is for you. It begins with the same first bolt as Reefer Madness and continues left through some tricky 5.11 climbing. Rest at the ledge and continue through the final 3 bolt crux. The beta is incredibly fun to work out and the climb has good clipping stances. The guidebook says 5.12d/13a, but Nate Weitzel and I felt that it wasn't quite that difficult.

Protection 

Standard sport. 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


Photos of Ten-Digit Dialing Slideshow Add Photo
My buddy Rob working the crux.
My buddy Rob working the crux.
Darren on the wonderful opening moves of TDD.
Darren on the wonderful opening moves of TDD.
Jeff in the early part of the crux sequence.
Jeff in the early part of the crux sequence.
Visiting Red River Gorge local Chaz Ott crushing on a cold ass December day! Nice work on putting this thing down very fast....
Visiting Red River Gorge local Chaz Ott crushing o...
Tyson Ferryman beating TDD into submission.
Tyson Ferryman beating TDD into submission.
Ten Digit Dialing.
Ten Digit Dialing.
Andrew Mathews crimping his way up the ultra-classic Ten Digit Dialing....
Andrew Mathews crimping his way up the ultra-class...
Zac on 10 Digit.
Zac on 10 Digit.

Comments on Ten-Digit Dialing Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 3, 2014
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
May 24, 2001

After a certain point and after a certain number of burns through a route, there comes a point when one justifiably owns a route, and now I own Ten Digit Dialing. Just as QS says, working out the beta on this route is a kick, albeit sometimes frustrating. I won't give it away, but the kicker on this ever so slightly past vertical route lies in figuring out how to dial in the feet and keep them working through the crimps that comprise the crux. This is a brilliant route on which the climbing just gets harder and harder with every move up the wall. Worth ten stars on a three star scale. Three cheers to Alan Nelson for this one, seriously.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jun 13, 2001

Without being too patronizing, I would not ascribe old, fat, weak, out of shape..... etc, etc, to the first ascensionist of Ten Digit Dialing. In fact, reference to approximately 30 years of climbing experience should add something to one's qualification to grade a route. And this Alan Nelson has. For TDD, I'll offer no personal opinion here, however, consensus grading seems to be one of the final arbitors for establishing a grade. Another arbitor is reference to a "Gold Standard" for the grade, in the area. As far as Clear Creek is concerned: Is TDD easier than Twitch? Is it harder than Anarchitect? Is it on par with Evil? What I will offer is that TDD has at least one move harder than Battle's End, which we call 5.12c and that seems to be well accepted. Down-grading by strong, young bloods should be taken with a grain of salt. I've climbed with some of these guys, and many are so strong now that most 5.12 comes very easy. Let's say that no matter how young and strong you are, a "Gold Standard" is the inviolate reference point. So think about the reference point when picking the grade, and remember: it's okay to get better, but getting better doesn't mean that a route has gotten easier.
By Quinn Stevens
From: Denver, CO
Jul 12, 2001

I've been climbing for 9 years, which for my age is not totally laughable. Before I sent TDD, the hardest previous route that I red pointed was 12a, a grade that I remained on for about four years. TDD took me only 5 or 6 tries over a few days. With regards to reference points, Tell Tale Heart in Boulder Canyon (12b) took me quite a bit longer. I still have not sent Twitch (12d) and have probably been to the rock on 5 separate occasions. I've been to Sonic Youth (13a) probably 10 times, still no redpoint. My ass is still sore from the ass kicking that Anarchitect gave me. The sloping arete crux on Evil between the fourth and fifth bolts is like doing some of the moves on TDD, but overhung. TDD is a fantastic line; one must be aware of all parts of his/her body at all times to pull it off. The line is precise, delicate, and yes, hard. However, I based my rating on experiences that myself and many others have had on the route. I suppose the real question here is one of rating ownership. The climbingboulder email had a discussion about this a few months ago. I felt that ratings ideally are a collaborative service to the climbing community. Perhaps my downrating does not entirely uphold this standard. I'm not Sharma and believe in the valuable function that ratings perform. On the flip side, if ratings padded my young, taught Swedish boy ass too much, then I probably would have kept the higher rating. Regardless, I give many thanks to Alan Nelson. Althought I don't know him, I'm guessing that the kind of guy he is is reflected in the quality of his routes, which are superb. Hopefully I haven't offended anyone, and perhaps I made some oldtimers feel young for all of the routes that I haven't done.
By Nate Weitzel
Jul 12, 2001

In regard to the above discussion on grading in Clear Creek, and especially TDD, I would have to agree with the concept of using Gold Standard routes to compare moves. I have tried many of the Clear Creek 12d's and 13a's, as well as having completed a number of the 12c's in the canyon. My opinion of the grade is based on these routes, and I would reference Twitch in particular. Twitch is very similar to TDD, although the crux moves are on slightly smaller holds. For this reason alone, TDD seems to be 12c, although definitely a hard 12c. Also, compare TDD to Sucking my will to live at the Primo Wall. I found Sucking to be more challenging and powerful, and it is another 5.12c.

I agree with Quinn and would love to applaud both Alan Nelson and Richard Wright for so many phenomenal routes in CCC, and thank them for all their hard work. I also respect the right of the first ascentionist to give a grade, but this grade needs to be worked out with the climbing community to establish the final grade. This happens with all good routes over time, the grade often changes a bit as more people figure it out. One other comment is that the grade should be accurate to give people who are aspiring to certain climbing levels a realistic feel for that grade. I have been quite disappointed in the past by trying routes in many areas that I put on my goal list, only to find the grade to be easier than stated. This can give people a false sense of security, which can be a dangerous thing.

Finally, even though I am a younger climber, I am definitely not a young gun who warms up on 13a. It has taken me 8+ years to be able to even try some of these routes that we are discussing, so I feel justified in giving my opinion on the grades.
By Sven Lavransen
Aug 9, 2001

A very good route about which I am very happy for careful and thinking Flash. Good moves to start with much harder finger moves near end, but route is very short so power is not very great. Having long reach in crux makes move to left not so hard as for the shorter person.
By Alex Shainman
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 16, 2001

This is an excellent route!! Great rock, well bolted, cool moves, the best line on the wall (one of the better new lines in CCC)...Not at all the grade given in the guide (12d/13a)... Realistically felt only 12b (but I'm 6')...compare it to something in Eldo. Inflated grades are taking over the Front Range, since the mid '90s!!! It's way more proud to grade new (sport) routes according to the standards of the early '90s and before....
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Aug 28, 2001

Having flashed this route, I have to say that comparing it with its neighbor, Reefer Madness, there is no single move on the 5.12 harder than the crux of the "11a". This doesn't make TDD easier but makes me wonder about Reefer Madness.
By Walt Wehner
Sep 4, 2001

This is a stellar route, but I'll eat my shorts if it's 13a. My best guess would be that it'd rate 12b or maybe b/c at an older area like Shelf. I haven't really climbed in 2 years, and I came within a hang of flashing it this weekend, meaning that it can't possibly be that hard ('cause I ain't that good!)

One of my favorite routes a Clear Creek! 10 stars on a 3 star scale sounds about right!
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 19, 2002

5.12c - Not a bad little onsight
By richard magill
Aug 20, 2002

I would go with 12c, but I think calling it any easier than that is just serious sandbagging.
By richard magill
Oct 2, 2002

Phenomenal.
By Joe Collins
Mar 17, 2003
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

This is the best sport pitch I've climbed thus far in Clear Creek! Unless I've gotten much better this winter, I agree with the above comments regarding the inaccurate guidebook rating of 12d/13a. Its probably more like 12c, and not a particular stout one at that.

Best sport pitch I've done in Clear Creek (caveat: I have not tried Anarchitecht or Sonic Youth).

fair to middlin' 12c
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 25, 2003

I think what people need to keep in mind is that the shorter you are the more difficult the crux is on this route. I did the route with someone only a few inches taller than me and watched him reach through the crux holds using the same solid good feet, whereas I had to move my feet twice onto much less desired footholds.

Having said that, I did TDD 2 years ago on my 2 try. While it didnt feel 13a for me, I would give it 12c/d based on the single hard move. Sucking my will to live is more sustained, but TDD has a harder move. Its a stellar route whatever the grade is!

Kathleen Staffa - (too lazy to register)
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 14, 2003

I would have to say that height is not really a factor on this route. 12d at Smith took me two weeks, TDD took me three tries on the same day, and I am only 5'6 and I pretty much suck at sport climbing. 12c seems good but maybe a little generous. Would love it it if were 13a. Great route fun moves.
By jonah
Jul 3, 2003

Climbed this thing today, so I wanted to log on to see what people said about the route. Imagine my disappointment to find nothing but a bunch of insecure pussies trying to boost their own egos by spraying about how easy they found this route. What about "great job, Alan, thanks for putting in the time and effort to bolt such a fun route" or "is there a better way to reach the sidepull than popping into an undercling on the triangular horn" or anything anyone cares about other than all the bitching about ratings. Wankers...
By Area Dan
Oct 12, 2003

I got on this route today- perfect weather. I must say it is really one of the highest quality pitches I have ever been on. I don't know and don't care about the grade, but thanks for bolting this masterpiece. Now I just have to go back and link it up to the bird poop.www.areadan.com.
By Patheticus
Oct 13, 2003
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Another 100' of this would make my shorts wet... Hmm... wet shorts...

Ratings be damned, it is one of the best routes in the park. Sequential, dynamic, 3-bolt crux. 'Git on it!!
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 17, 2003

Alan, I think this is a really good line (and well bolted) but there is no way it's 13a. Just because this climb took you a certain number of tries does not necessarily mean that it is a certain grade. Different climbs favor different people. I got this route on my second try in the middle of summer whereas Anarchitect took more than five days of work over the course of a month. I usually dont redpoint 12c on my second try but favor crimps over slopers and power over endurance so 12c seems reasonable.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 15, 2005
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Great fun. I was expecting the start to be more difficult than it is, from all the hype this little route gets. The crux is certainly no harder than 12c. Probably the biggest crux is deciphering the most efficient sequence, as every available feature, edge, bump, and crimp, are chalked and ticked!

Plenty of good rests before the crux, great clipping stances.
By Wyatt Payne
From: Littleton CO
Sep 18, 2005

This is one of my favorite routes in the canyon. Definitely a good one to repeat. I jumped on it today and noticed that the crux is easier. A sloping side pull has mysteriously become quite positive. I'm afraid someone has chipped it, and want to know if anyone else has noticed this. I was definitely bummed. I'd like to think climbers are more respectful. Let me know what's up.
By BZD
Oct 2, 2006

I just recently had my draws stolen off Ten Digit Dialing, like in the past 4 or 5 days. Does anyone know anything that could help me get them back? I really need them. I won't be pissed off. I just want them back. Thanks.
By micah stocker
Oct 7, 2007

God I love this place! The only problem is what the hell happened to it. It's like I move away and now the whole Golden Cliffs crowed has moved in. Funny story, I watched like ten different climbers get on TDD this weekend. They all lowered off and down graded it. Best part was not a single one sent the dam thing. No wonder grades are so out of WHACK! Everyone that has sent it, is pretty set on 12c, however, pulling on a draw must to make it soft for the grade.... LOL.
By Sam Benedict
From: Denver, CO
Mar 27, 2008
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I hate this climb with all my heart. It is a fine route...for me to poop on.
By doug rouse
From: Denver, CO.
Sep 2, 2008

5.12b--I guess I will open my yap on this one as well. First I need to say that I usually do not contribute to public spray, and that I thought this to be an amazing line! I will further add that I have climbed other routes given .12c, and found most of them to require further effort. By example I would say this one feels easier than Pizza Dick, Power Bulge, most certaily easier than Je T'aime...If you can make the reach properly ( which feels natural ), then you're stylin' to the chains! I have yet to encounter a bad day climbing at CCC! Peace, Young Doug.
By Micah Holt
Nov 10, 2008
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

I thought it was harder than Finger Prince....maybe I am just weird, but really. I think 12c if not 12d...I lean towards 12d. I also thought that it was close to on par with Flying Cowboys and Sucking My Will To Live. It's just hard to grade due to the cryptic beta.
By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Sep 5, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I find it interesting that many people have 'ticked' this route without actually redpointing it.... Don't really care, but isn't that the definition of a 'tick'???
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Sep 8, 2009

It is to you and me Darth, but apparently we're in the minority.
By Luke Childers
Nov 11, 2009

Great line!! Felt solid at 12c. Cool crux section as well. Did not get the on-sight but will be back for the red point!!!
By J Antin
From: Denver, CO
May 10, 2011
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

FANTASTIC LINE! Looking forward to working on this one....
By Stephen Nance
From: Boulder, CO
May 30, 2011

Spot on .12c. I am 6'5", and it is still hard. Rhe bottom crux sequence maybe easier for me, but getting my feet up for the last sequence to the jug is very tough for me with my height.

My opinion, this could be the benchmark 12c in CCC.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Aug 3, 2011

If you're bored with the start of TDD, you can add another 5.12 crux by starting up Reefer Madness. Traverse up and left at the 3rd bolt staying at the level of the jug before the crux of Reefer.
Dumb but fun.
By slim
Administrator
Sep 15, 2011
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

If you've sent Lucid Dreaming, I think it's ok for you to say that you climb hardish 12. Which route was easier for you, TDD or LD?
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 15, 2011
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

I think Coy Flynn should try some harder routes in the Front Range. He may surprise himself or at least have a better idea of 5.12 ratings.

I think some folks rate TDD on the onsight, some rate it on the redpoint.
By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Sep 20, 2011
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Corey, you should try Testify at Wall of J mountainproject.com/v/testify/....
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 16, 2012

Great route with funs flowy moves and a super fun crux. There is a reason someone is always on this thing. On par with Ken Tanks, Anarchitect, and Sucking in terms of quality....
By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Jan 21, 2012
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Enough said...bahahahahahaha! I love mp.com. Classic!
By richard magill
Jan 23, 2012

Outstanding 12c route.
By Ben Hall
From: Boulder, Colorado
May 13, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Rock is very very greasy at this time. Still, arguably, one of the best routes at Clear Creek.
By climberboy228
May 26, 2014

Got on it for the first time today...awesome! I was on TR set quite easily after ascending Reefer Madness. I got the first 2/3 of the route clean first go until the last two bolts where the crux lies. It looks like you can string together a series of sequency crimps through the crux rather than the desperate sloper/squeeze problem people talk about. I will return and try some more.
By DPug
Jun 9, 2014
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Yesterday I ended up breaking off the good incut right above the third bolt. There still is the good flat edge to the right of where the hold broke, so it doesn't change anything. Just thought I'd let people know.
By Clint Hager 1
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jun 12, 2014

I was climbing here on June 11th, and I was next to a party that were climbing this route and Wet Dream. Anyways, they accidentally forgot to clean one of their draws on this route. I think one person in the party's name was Mike.

Mike, if you're reading this, I have your quickdraw. Send me a message, and I can give it back to you.

-Clint
By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Sep 3, 2014

Got on TDD for the first time, today. I walked away not loving the route, although, in retrospect, I might have judged prematurely. It was hot up there, smelled like urine at the base, and I felt that the climbing up to the crux was less than memorable. The short compression sequence at the top was somewhat interesting, although out of character with everything below it. Maybe I'm nitpicking.

I had no beta going in, and I managed to unlock the crux in a few minutes. Not sure why people are finding it so cryptic. I also don't understand the use of the sidepull out left that everyone is using in the beta photos.

Definitely feels easier than Lucid Dreaming, imo, which feels like 12c/d, although I haven't given TDD a RP burn, so I'll hold off on spraying about it's grade. Two stars so far. Maybe more once I go back and send it. It's nowhere near the quality of Anarchitect, Twitch, and Sonic Youth - all of which are much harder.