Ten Days After
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This is a great route with some fun exposure. It's a lesser traveled route on the column, good training for more moderate El Cap routes or as an intro to nailing. The line follows large, steep and clean features for the first half; the second half has smaller features and more rivets before joining the Prow at Tapir Terrace. All placements on the wild circle-head traverse were fixed as of Sept09. Although other fixed pieces ripped on me. We placed only a few pins, this route could easily go clean for those with sufficient aid-trickery experience.
Most belays are bolted. Have fun!
Take all the toys described in the SuperTopo guidebook, with an emphasis on small offset cams/ nuts. It's unlikely that you will need any heads/ circle heads but bring them in case fixed gear is missing.
By Osprey Overhang
Mar 7, 2012
FA: John Barbella, Eric Brand, 2/1987
By Bryan G
Apr 22, 2016
Pitch 1 has a short section of mandatory 5.9 free climbing (after the bolt) that feels stout when it's covered in ants and you're self-belayed. Pitch 2 is also dripping wet in the spring and I had to pull like 40lbs of grass and vegetation out of the crack. If you're soloing, then link pitch 6 (the traverse) with pitch 7. You might need a 70m to do this, but it makes cleaning the traverse on rappel super easy.
Bring a couple small beaks and a sawed-off KB. Also bring a handful of heads and something to clean deadheads. You don't need anything bigger than a #3 Camalot.